How the plants could keep living indoor in case if the air conditioner has broken down?

Well you could add that 24watt bulb with the other 85 watt bulbs but don’t replace the 85watt bulbs with it.

Maybe only grow in about half of the space that your growing in now also.

As far as the AC goes, you’ll just have to add the bulb and see if your air temperatures go up after you do

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Yes, not yet due to the current ability and the growing stand place.

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I think I’ve to stay only with that two current bulbs which has 85W in every single one now, till after I don’t know when I will have AC.

Because am sure with that other kind of growing light which has 24W in every single one the plants will completely change it mood, and by that changing the odor might start to spread around very fast, I think.

So I don’t want that happen in case if I have visitors like maintenance workers in my room.

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Thank you all very much for the beneficial knowledge that you supplied me by, the correction and every thing.

I appreciated that so much.

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03

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So far so no more growth without A/C on the group with plant © which I trimmed her two first flowers accidentally, but there is a weak growth on one plant.

The group

C

The plant which has the weak growth

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Did you find out what your temps are ?@Hemp_Nature

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Unfortunately no, but I’ll order a thermometer and hygrometer once I get a financial ability, hopefully in next 1st of Jun.

And fortunately, the A/C has been changed in nearly between 5 - 6hrs ago. Wishing no one loss their A/C specially in the summer.

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That’s a terrible thing. I’ve lost it in my car in the middle of the summer and that sucked. Couldn’t imagine what it would be like in the house through the summer with no AC

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Because that reason why am wishing you to be in a cool weather, because how was bad climate as I felt and noticed on my plants too.

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my man, invest in humidity and temp meter

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Definitely true, and it depend on what strain you are growing, as I learned, understood and noticed.

But the problem which am facing now and still learning everything about this kind of plant day by day: (The strains determines).
Because in this level which am in now, I have some seeds of different strains mixed in one bag as I noticed so far.

And you have to have get an convenient environment to be able to separate every single strain in it suitable environment indoor.

So now I’ve to wait till I know if the last plant is Autoflowring or not, to adjust the climate on the correct set in my greenhouse, as much as the current ability could.

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Before I start to change the kind of the current local photosynthesis inside the greenhouse.

Do you think that kind of grow light 24W which I posted it specifications above, will let the flowers begin to sprout up before I switch the light cycle to 12/12 on the last plant, which is still on the vegetative state right now? Or it far for doing that acceleration in flowers sprout?

Hopefully what I explained to you is clear now. :joy:

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Don’t you have autoflowers?

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I’m guessing that was typo, I kind of doubt by the look of the pictures that you have a box longer than a football field.

Looking at the pictures of the box, I’m going to try and run some numbers based on the guess your space is actually 100 cm x 96.5 cm. And maybe approximately 100 cm tall?

100 cm x 96.5 cm = 10.387 sq ft

So let’s just say 10 square feet.

What kind of lights are the 85 watt lights?

You could add the LED light to your current lights during flower, but that 24 watt led light certainly will not be enough alone.

85 + 24 = 109 watts

10 sq ft x 50 watts = 500 watts

Sounds like you could get away with a MH or HPS or CMH around at least 400 watts for flowering, but you will have to deal with some heat and figure out how to get rid of that heat.

A quality top of the line LED can maybe get away with quite a bit less electricity for that area, maybe getting away with as low as about 250 watts, but even with the LED light @tdubwilly posted above you’ll probably want a bit higher wattage than 250 actual consumed watts, maybe closer to that 400 watt mark with a average grade LED light.

How close the light is to the plant is also a consideration. You can get away with a little less watts by moving the light very close, but again you need to also watch out for not letting it get too close and the light-fixture itself being too hot if too close.

And finally, I wasn’t sure if you said you have all autoflowers or not?

Are you asking if the LED light being added will trigger the autos to flower? No, probably not.

They will normally start to flower when they reach a certain age, maybe around a month to two months, and maybe even longer.

And even with the same auto-flower strain, you may have other factors or stresses that will trigger flowering in a auto more than adding the led light.

One example is getting root bound. The size of the container can cause a auto plant to flower earlier than it might otherwise have.

happy growing,

MacG

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Yes, all of them Autoflowring except that one which is in the meddle, I don’t now yet if it’s will be change in next days or not!.

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Yes you are right, and I apologies bout that a mistake. Yes what I meant is (1 meter) 100 centimeters x 96.5 centimeters. I appreciated your noticed and attention on that so much.

( 70cm ) the distance from the both bulbs to the the soil surface.

( 22cm ) the distance from the both bulbs to the plant canopy which has no signs of Autoflowering strain so far.

( 50cm ) the distance from one bulb to the group canopy.

( 60cm ) the distance from one bulb to plant (C).

( 40cm ) the distance from the both bulbs to the ceiling.

85W per bulb.

Only two inputs for bulbs are available now and almost surrounded by foil reflection inside.

The bulbs which are connecting now,

Which I’ve currently too,

——-

Am confusing now!!. Is correct to account the “Watts” from different types of light all together?

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I think you are starting to get it.

It is complicated, it is physics.

Unless you get a device to measure Photosyntheticly Active Radiation, a PAR meter, the only way to estimate the energy being turned into light is guessing or estimating by knowing what the watts are.

Different lighting technology has different efficiency in turning electricity into light.

Also due to the inverse square law of radiation or light, distance has a significant effect on how many photons are hitting the chlorophyll. This can be specifically measured in micromoles.

Roughly:

High Pressure Sodium light is 50 watts per sq foot.

T5 and compact fluorescent is maybe 35-45 watts per square foot, depending on how well you have the heat controlled and/or how close the bulb is to the plant.

LEDs can maybe get away with as little as 25 watts per square foot depending on the quality of the LED matrix, and/or how close to the plant, but maybe more like about 35 watts per square foot for the average decent LED light fixture.

I hope this helps clarify some things for you.

Any questions and feel free to ask, I’m sure someone here will get back to you pretty soon.

~MacG

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I also wanted to say, it isn’t that you can’t get some bud off those plants with what you have, you can.

It is just that you will get a lot better quality with enough intensity of light for your area.

What you have now will be plenty for the vegetative phase of regular photo period cannabis, and you may be happy with what you can get off your autoflower plants with these lights.

And eventually you can add more or better lights.

Happy growing,

~MacG

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What I meant,

Is every single type of light could effects the plant mutation?

For example: if I have two plants from Auto-flower strain and separated every single plant under different type of light, Is that might results OG on the first plant and Banana-split on the second plant. Or two Sativa plants both of them under one type of light is that might results Indica? Is that might happen?

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