never had it. at the first signs of it. remove any and all affected flowers. keep your RH lower in flower room. and dont foliar feed after week 4.
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May I miss quote you. 
Sorry I am in the camp of don’t foliageer feed save the time and spend that time with family.
Yes I know some people swar by
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Interesting info, thanks Ethan
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Environment is key to reducing the risk of these sorts of outbreaks.
Air flow and humidity are likely to the two biggest issues here, that being not enough air flow for the level of humidity. As the humidity rises the chances of these issues taking hold increases, good airflow goes a long way to reduce this from happening. If you can manage air flow of around 2m/sec (2 meters per second) across your entire space you will significantly reduce the chances of these outbreaks.
From what we get to see when it comes to airflow is the standard ring of fans around the perimeter of the grow environment as it is convenient to attach the fans to the walls. Depending on the size of the space and the number of plants this can lead to the plants in the central areas not getting anywhere near the right amount of airflow. This lack of airflow then leads to undesirable micro-climates forming which in turn lead to outbreaks of bud rot and the like. Uniform airflow across the whole environment, above and below the canopy really helps.
Relative humidity (%RH) and temperature of course are also key, in particular any major swings in temperature and the risk of hitting dew point temperature. Temperatures tend to swing up and down far quicker than humidity. So when the lights go out and there is a sudden temperature drop, any high humidity micro-climate is likely to hit dew point temperature and result in condensation forming, if the air is stagnant it will take a lot longer for the water to evaporate and the longer it stays at the dew point temperature the more water will condense out as the plants transpire. Good air movement helps reduce this.
Monitoring that environment is key and what really makes a difference is sensor density. All too often it is just one or two sensors per grow environment and hung no where near to the actual environment being monitored. A sensor hanging in a box 30cm above the canopy is not giving you a true canopy reading, and to assume that 1 or 2 sensors in a space any bigger than 1.5m by 1.5m by 2.5m is giving you any sort of accurate view of your grow environment is a risky assumption to make. As plants grow they shape and change the environment, the volume of air in the environment changes as they displace more and more as they get bigger, they disrupt airflow to areas which previously would have been fine etc…
Shameless plug time 
Our philosophy is that given the environment is one of if not the most important element to get right, it should not be the one thing you can’t afford to monitor correctly. A sensor every 2.5m to 3m (8’ to 10’) apart in large environments and one every 1.5m to 2m (4’ to 6’) in smaller environments is an ideal minimum. The reason for the closer sensor spacing in the smaller environment is that they tend to having more dramatic/rapid swings (especially if they are not sealed). Not just the canopy level needs to be monitored, below and above it also needs to be monitored which really can start to ramp up the costs.
This is where we change the game, 100 sensor units (one temperature and one combined temperature and %RH sensor each on 2.5m leads per unit) for $8,000 USD (one off) and around $6,000 per annum for the software depending on requirements.
If you’d like to know more then please do get in contact.
Pete
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Pete,
If you change this statement by removing the word “likely”, I think the statement is 100% true.
Thank you for pointing out the “shameless” sales pitch. You are forgiven by the griant spaghetti G-d, because you transferred knowledge and not dogma.
From the voices in my head.
Ethan
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Food grade 35% diluted with water
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So if I want to bleach my beard this is the stuff.
On the serious side do you have your MSDS for your product?
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@ethan Sure! Billy Idol blonde is a great look!!!
Sales@sensational-solutions.com to request SDS sheets
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this year outdoor was bud rot central. I saw this on a lot of outdoor type crops this past season . Two things I feel can prevent this from happening.
*Water Management
- Preventative control (IPM)
shake plants every morning knocking any moisture , open up air movement, Check the CEC in the soil profile etc…
*Environment with definite humidity might need to treat low rate preventative pest control
I do see that once trimmed out . even if a little is left on . iTs perfect for personal use.
good topic
this is just my thoughts on it. NOT facts
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My guess is a good yeast would fight the problem. Think strawberry production.
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I would have to politely disagree with you on keeping the humidity low in flower. You will want to drop your humidity to the upper 60s in the last couple weeks, however, lower humidities actually increase fungal ingress, especially with temp and rh swings from day to night.
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it is probabally more realistic for each region to have a % tolerance. id be willing to go 60% sure. dont think it would be a issue. however im not a fan of mold and such. the percents i run. never had any rot,fungus,pest or anything. Possibly regional. Its very hard to have a set standard in growing. Every grow has its own schedule. every grow is different. and no other grower can tell me how to improve my grow. Every grow ia different. even if all things are the same.
im ususally around 45-50 Here in LA. works ok for me.
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There are many factors of course, and I too grow in the 40-50% range with almost no issues. That being said, there’s a lot of research that demonstrates anything outside of 0.6-1.0 kPa for VPD, if memory serves, you dramatically increases your chances of fungal ingress. If you consistently grow healthy plants, and your grow is very clean, you can be fine no question. If you grow on a commercial scale, however, you are best to keep your humidity higher so as to maintain the appropriate VPD (0.6-0.8 kPa in veg and 0.8-1.0 in flower).
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