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Bud Rot Prevention

Bud rot grosses me out! How do you guys deal with it? I’d like to hear your success stories (horror stories too!)
budrot

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First thing that comes to mind is bring out the flamethrower…

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I don’t want ask everybody to drink my Koolaid all the time but in the vast sea of “i’ve got a product that I can help reduce that”… I do. Have you been inoculating your soil with microbial bacteria other than Trich and mycorrhizae ?

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Just a general inquiry really. What else do you recommend?

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I would be happy to send you some information and sample product. I have worked both in conventional agriculture and commercial cannabis as a PCA to find that we are always growing and seeing things through new approaches of old biology. It is important to provide the plant with resources that it can access when it is under stress (ie pathogens). Many functions in the plant can be manipulated but there is always a need for the a sort of supplemental vitamin approach. We produce a consortium of microbial bacteria that help with all metabolic processes, pathogen resistance, stress reduction, insect resistance, organic nutrient uptake, rhizosphere development, etc. iNvigorate® has 10 different families which all coexist and assist each other in these processes. This isn’t snake oil. You can email me [email protected]

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Once you get botyrtis, cutting off buds with evident lesions is good but, as this is a systemic pathogen, you won’t be getting rid of the infection. That being said, botyrtis is allergenic but not pathogenic or toxic to humans so you don’t necessarily have to destroy your entire crop over it, just don’t try to sell it as consumer grade flower. Extraction it’s the best remediation.

Preventative measures are a must. Competitive exclusion, environment, and plant health are the areas I focus on for prevention of all pest issues. For botyrtis, endophytes, like trichoderma, are my first line of defense, after a stable environment of course (VPD etc.). Next comes regular microbial foliar sprays through vegetative stages and early flower. For these sprays things like compost extracts and teas, bokashi, Earth worm castings, em1, LABs, etc. all provide protection through competitive exclusion, and are all really inexpensive if you make your own. Soil drenches of these microbes also helps. Unfortunately a lot of states will fail you for having these high levels of beneficial microbes.

In terms of plant health, high brix and balanced leaf tissue nutrient levels will generally help exclude pathogens and there are many ways to get there, chelated micronutrient foliar sprays being my current favorite. So always be testing leaf tissue, even if it looks healthy.

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I agree with you on all your statements. This is why we have co fermented our 10 different families together to not only to give a broad spectrum of MOA’s but so that they can coexist. I do not recommend using microbials after week two in flower to reduce residue testing issues. We have a real issue with Bot in many areas of CA. As you stated there are many different factors which create an environment which can put one pathogen front and center. You are correct we should farm to the leaf. If you are interested in any information in our products let me know, they have very easy fit in many programs.

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"Preventative measures are a must. Competitive exclusion, environment, and plant health are the areas I focus on for prevention of all pest issues. "
+1000

More horizontal air fans and periodic sprays of something like Greencure or Milstop helps. Keeping the leaves at higher pH helps keep things like grey mold from starting. and i totally agree with microbiofarmer that once you see grey mold, its kind of too late. keeping other organisms on the plant to out compete pathogens is typically the easiest way to prevent infection. Also plant health is always overlooked with fungal problems. healthy plants are less susceptible to endophytic pests. big velvety leaves within colas should be pruned out during the last weeks of harvesting to encourage good airflow between buds.
any part of the plant that’s green and under lights is undergoing photosynthesis and transpiring water. so all those individual buds are making moisture that needs to get off and away from the plant. the cultural practice of leaf pruning during flower and maintaining VPD across the plant is one of the most overlooked keys to keeping things like grey mold from starting on the plants.

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Botritis needs to be prevented.

What we know about Botritis is a lot.
High humidity
Low air flow
Poor light levels.

Things to fight against Botritis

Great air circulation
Control humidity.
Good light.

There is a chart on humidity and temperature for Botritis control. I think the study was done in the 1960’s. The one of the hosts in the study was Sweetpeas.

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That’s interesting as I’ve always heard bud rot WAS toxic. Learn something new every day!

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Botritis has been know for years to cause problems with Greenhouse workers and grape growers for years. There even something called grape cough that was first described in the 1800’s in France. It was later linked to grape harvesters who breathed in a large quantity of Botritis.

The NIH has suggested that Botritis should be added to allergy test panels.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20047250

There is also a usda and osha guide lines for fungal spores in mushroom production. There big problem is Botritis.

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Chris,

Looking at the product you must ask how well the environment was controlled. SDI may have the equipment you need for a correct grow condition. You can email me at [email protected]

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Neville,

What is the spectrum of environmental controls available today.

Warm regards
Ethan

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Ethan,

  SDI is delivering customized solutions that control Dew Point and Temperature.  This delivers Temperature and Relative Humidity.  Relative humidity is a calculation of Dew Point and Temperature, by controlling the two pieces of data that give you RH we achieve optimum control.  We are also using Vaportrol technology which is the control of the vapor pressure at all times.  We are also delivering precise control of the vapor pressure in the room which is how you get constant VPD.  The SDI control manages the air changes through the room, lights on, lights off, Air movement in the room which is achieved with antimicrobial fabric and computer designed air flow just where you need it.

  The SDI solution is a fully modulating system enabling flat line control in rooms, not the see saw graphs which show the room to be as much time out of control as in control.  Those out of control times combined with less than adequate air flow where needed that contribute to a localized condition that can lead to your problem.  Its rare for a problem to have a single cause, often the culmination of several small factors.  The SDI system transitions from day to night maintaining the vapor pressure through what often proves to be a difficult transition, when the lights go out, the cooling stops, and there is nothing to keep the RH under control because the dehumidifiers are left to do all the work that was being supplement by the cooling system.  SDI has this situation covered.

My number is 314 409 2252, call me anytime.

Neville

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I going to be out of town until the the 28th, but I very much would like to talk to you when I get back.

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Looking forward to a call.

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Sulphur burners, proper environment with dehus, great airflow with spore catching filtration, ozones generators on recycle timers are my preventative along with healthy plant growth. Its usually not just one thing that causes Bot, but compounding factors.

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Brovo! :heart_eyes:

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Hydrogen peroxide!

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From what source.

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