Was hoping to get some advice if possible on building lights. I’m all about DIY grow equipment. Save my money for good grow mediums, nutes, and seed. I have these two VividGro V2 fixtures that need new drivers. I was originally given 3 lights in various working order. Took them apart and built 1 really solid light. My problem is the original drivers have been discontinued. Called 3 different manufacturers and one sent me details on alternative replacements. I’m worried about fucking up my lights though. Should I just use the diodes and start from scratch? The second picture is an original MOSO driver and a replacement the original owner tried. When I plugged it in though it got way hotter than the standard drivers. I’m not an electrician, I can wire some stuff but when it comes to amps and watts and all that I get lost…
Get with @PreyBird1 he builds lights can help you out better than I can!
i’ll be watching this one. hope you get some good answers 
I sent him a private message but haven’t heard back yet. Mad respect to @PreyBird1 and @Slym3r. Love reading their threads.
Hey the drive thats replacing the old will work. The biggest difference is in the working voltage. The old original starts at 20v-41v -10% =40v the driver is still 320 w but it has a 4.0 amp max power and a higher operation voltage. So that should mean that the original lights have a dimmer or some way of adjusting the current via potentiometer/dimmer.
Good news is the lights are being under driven meaning the voltage from the new driver is at the lower power rating at maximum power than the original can produce. So this actually is less stress on the lights and more on the driver. Id run it and not even sweat it. But if you want a tiny bit more power then i would call digikey and speak with a lighting engineer. But really id just run it.
Thank you so much for the advice. I’m going to get these bad boys all running soon then. 
I’m honored your reading my threads. Thank you very much!
@kuntrybudz this is the thread I mentioned where I’m going to journal the fixtures I’m repurposing. Also going to be building some from scratch.
It’s my pleasure sir. I’ve already picked up a lot of neat little tricks reading your stuff. Really excited to see how your commercial grow does.
AC Infinity is coming out with led grow lights called longrid. The T22 (2x2) is $149 and the S22 is $129. The 2x4, 3x3 and 4x4 are under development and don’t have prices listed yet!
all this talk of electricity and such… i have a lil emergency but not with lights. my furnace quit in the middle of the night, woke up to 40 degrees in the house. unacceptable with my 5 yr old in the house, so at 3:30 am there i am lookin for my space heaters. the troubleshooter says the pressure valve is stuck open, and i have no idea what to do. nothing is open this early, and aside from climbing up on the roof in 6 inches of fresh pow, i’m just doin my best with 2 lil space heaters.
any advice would be appreciated. sorry for throwin this on your thread @fist-ninja but i thought i might find some help here. im actually just waiting to wake up my boy for school and then put the nose to the grindstone and fix this, but i would like ideas. i have little to no experience with this. worst i’ve dealt with before was running out of propane or having pilot lights go out, easily fixed.
Hell my firnace went down totally 4 days ago.
$2500 later. And lucky my friend does this for a living. Installed on a saturday in a not legal grow. Man good to know people.
damn man, i hope mine isn’t done for good. i don’t know people lol. im tryin to get a pro out there, but first i gotta find someone to plow the driveway or they won’t (can’t) come up it. i looked at vids, i’ tinkered, i tapped, i give up. it’s beyond the lay man without tools or know how. hoping some of the DIYers here would know lol. nothin i can do now but wait on calls, but my boy is safe and warm in school so i ain as worried now… as long as i can get it fixed by nightfall. between 2 space heaters and my oven (been a while since i pulled that ol trick) i can make it work for now. kinda glad i don’t have an indoor grow, this coulda been catastrophic.
i was gonna parlay my problem into questions about the heat given off by grow lights, whether LED give off light or not, but to be honest my mind isn’t in it right now. trying to keep pipes and animals from freezing lol. we literally got hit with a 36 hour snowstorm from sunday to tuesday, and this shyt happens lol. and i got up on the roof. pipe is clear, and it’s cold as a witches tit in an iron bra in february. i am envious of anyone south of 42 N longitude.
Damn hope it works out for ya. Damn off to work i go.
Damn man that’s rough. I lived in SW Iowa for 7 years so I know how you feel. Used my oven as a heater many times.
Yes I saw those when I was looking at the 67 controller they came out with that you and I purchased. Did you get the upgrade on the software? Mine automatically upgraded and it no longer works, it shows everything as it did before but I lost all the buttons on the screen except for the AUTO button, the on, off, and scheduling buttons dissappeared and anything you try to do just pops up an information pop up telling you want you are touching or how to do what you are trying to do but doesn’t let you change anything? I am going to get on their live chat today and ask what is going on.
Marty
It is highly unlikely that it is the pressure switch. They almost never go bad. I took care of hundreds of furnace/ac’s for a commercial property company for 20 years. The diagnostics on the “smart boards” are actually pretty dumb. Take the rubber hose off the induced draft motor and suck on it, if you hear a click it is not bad. It is actually a vacumn switch, why they call them pressure switches I have no idea. The induced draft motor as it blows the air out of the plenum (to insure there is no unburnt gas) in the system creates a vacumn which closes that switch. take the rubber hose off the induced draft motor as I said before, and then the small metal tube that is sticking out of the fan housing take a small piece of wire and push it through that hole, a lot of times that small tube gets clogged with rust flakes and it can’t get the vacumn to that switch. Try that first.
The furnace goes through a sequence to start. Take the cover off the furnace, wait about five minutes, then hold the switch in that the cover holds down. The furnace should try and start, and the very first thing that should happen is the induced draft motor should start. if it doesn’t then either the motor is bad or the circuit board is bad, the diagnostics are crude at best. If the fan doesn’t start, and if you have a volt ohm meter, set the meter to 120v ac. Then unplug the connector between the motor and the board, put your two probes into the board side of the connector, then push the switch in on the furnace again, if you see the meter reading 120v then the board is good, if you don’t then the board is bad.
EDIT and PS…this advise depends on the fact that your furnace has a circuit board with a induced draft motor and pressure switch. which I believe you said it does.
Marty
i felt each tube by hand, no breaks or holes, and i took the one off that you mentioned and blew into it… maybe i should have sucked, but there was no sound either way. i poked a lil with an alan wrench, lightly, to try and clear any debris or rust/gas oxidation/what-not, and i’ve been using the switch that’s turned on by the cover to check if anything works after each step i take. i’ve also tapped them (the motor and the black circular… where the hoses go.) i don’t have a volt ohm meter, and i’ve tried to let it cycle a few times. the motor whirrs up, but then the sound changes and the area whit the 2 black cylinders that the hoses go to seems to be the origin of the new sound. after a few seconds, the troubleshooting light flashes 3 times again, signalling the pressure valve is stuck open.
i watched a couple youtubes, read a couple sites from heating/cooling techs, and this was as far as i could go… comfortably. i get a lil iffy when it comes to electricity, or screwing something up that’ll cost an arm and a leg to fix. i appreciate your experience, and i think i covered what you suggest. i might go try that hose again, suck on it this time. i got time lol.
You have to SUCK, lol…not blow, you will will hear a little click if you suck. If you hear that the pressure switch is good. That small metal tube that the hose goes on at the induced draft motor just goes into the housing that has the impeller that creates that vaccumn for the switch to work, if it is clogged the switch won’t close, and you will get the “pessure switch open” diagnostic number of flashes warning.
Marty
Also check your circuit board, is there water or rust stains on it? If you don’t keep your AC condensate line clear and it drips water into your furnace and it gets on the circuit board it can cause all kinds of problems, from incorrect diagnostic codes to outright failure.