First grow please help

Having some drama guys newbie here all the gear an no idea haha mars hydro 7x7 good light and exhaust fan
pulled these from the tent this morning an put out in the rain as they look fucked ones only started to wilt last night the other is growing but looks like every time it sprouts a leaf the leaf shrivels.


They where germed an planted a few weeks ago then moved into the tent at 18/6. Two took off but these two stunted.

I assumed water logged soil was the problem so have barely been feeding them and gave the pots more air holes.
The two going good are showing a few signs in the leaves and one of them seems that each new leaf for the passed few days has just shrivelled rather then flourish an open.

An I have two others that went in at the same time an they both stunted the baby’s haven’t grown an inch

Iv tried starving them stabbed the pots to get them to dry an try grow but nup I’m thinking today il have to transplant them all to canna coco an get the hyd chems going but I don’t know shit

These other three have just sprouted in a little greenhouse an I wanna make sure they don’t stunt aswell

Thinking I may need to transplant them all to cana coco an get them running on controlled feeds but also finances arnt huge atm. So trying to do the best I can with what I have .

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Welcome to the forum! What kind of soil do you have them in currently?

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Hey man thanks for your reply currently they are in just a veggie potting mix with some soil from the pig pen. Fed them a bit of seasol with water Used the same on my outdoor lot they are in a garden bed tho and are thriving . Tho we are in a perfect coastal climate for them.
Again thanks for your time man new to this forum and forums in general :sweat_smile: also have lowered the light a bit an moved fan to outside the tent and added a small oscillating fan in the corner

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I’m not sure but they kind of looks like the soil they are in is hot. I think this because the babies look good but the older ones look rough. The babies don’t have the root mass yet to suck up whats in the soil and the older ones do have the root mass and it seems to me that they are burning because of that. Veggie potting soil can be very hot by itself and the pig soil will probably make it hotter. It just my opinion, some great people will probably have a better take on your issue. You might also have bug issues on the plants in the 1st 2 pictures you posted, hard to tell for me but when I enlarged the pictures I saw some spots that are suspect.

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Thanks man I will take that into consideration an try eliminate one problem at a time. Shouldn’t be any drama transplanting plants that young to some cana coco or something hopefully :crossed_fingers:. Will also wait an hope for any other advice. I’ll head out today an pick up some bits :+1: thanks so much for your time man :slightly_smiling_face::slightly_smiling_face:

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@TheMadFlascher, @PreyBird1, @sssportsmfg, @happilyretired what do you think?

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Holy crap man! No joke fresh manure is really hot. And veggie soil is not what you really want- need to use for soil and the 2 combined are probably outta sight hot Also hey welcome to the forum!!! Sorry !!
And the stunted plants are in way to big of a pot and watering them properly is not going to work right. Because it will saturate badly and the roots could drown. Soil done wrong in the begining is tricky. Also not knowing the strain your growing is tuff also. Because you dont know what it likes or doesnt like to eat or how much of it. Later conversations on that.

  • Only Spread Well-Rotted Manure

You should only ever dress your beds with well-rotted manure, with the exception of that derived from rabbits and alpacas (more on that below). Fresh or ā€œhotā€ manure contains high levels of nitrogen, ammonium, and salts that can burn plants, especially young seedlings. If you can only source fresh manure, you’ll need to throw it onto your compost pile with equal parts wood chips, hay, or other material high in carbon.

This biomass will allow anaerobic bacteria to get a foothold, which will catalyse a thermophilic reaction that breaks down the manure into usable compost over several months. This level of heat will also help to kill off any seeds that passed through the animal’s digestive tract. Use a compost thermometer and flip your pile when the dial reaches the red zone. Keep your pile moist, but not dripping wet. When you grab a handful and squeeze, it shouldn’t leak water.

Pig Manure

Back in the day, many growers used to dig pig manure into their beds and leave it to break down over the winter months. While a viable option in the past, intensive pig raising operations have led to an increase in E. coli, salmonella, and parasites in these animals.

Simply digging pig manure into your beds won’t expose it to the higher temperatures of hot composting. If you obtain fresh pig manure, add it to your compost pile to kill off these pathogens. Alternatively, source well-rotted pig manure from a reputable supplier before spreading it.

I prefer promix-hp and add simple things to it. K.i.s.s. keep it stupid simple. Pro mix is soil like and coco like. Its easy to feed in this type of media. Its got great drainage and organic items in it. I think the over watering, too big of pots and fresh poo’ might be an issue.

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I don’t know much but i was thinking same thing with soil. Nut burn. Just the way the leaves are curling under . But you have definitely found the rite place here. There are many experienced growers
on here. Best of luck to you and your ladies

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Man i see your light is way to high in the air.! Is that the tent there in? Maybe you need to get the light closer to the seedlings so they dont grow tall and stretch to the light because they will and fall over. But the light can fry the plant if its to hot and too close. Now if the plants get tall and lanky. You need to transplant them put the soil/media half and inch to 1" from the bottoms of the plants leaves. Put soil all the way up to the plant. Man you got a lot to learn my friend @tubular he’s from OZ i think no he is NZ sorry he can help us also because he grows gorrilla style. We have to break you in lol. Lots to learn fast lol.

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Nitrogen overdose for sure.

Marty

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@aussienewb, first of all Welcome to GN!

I agree whole-heartedly with what @PreyBird1 and @nacho151 have previously stated !

You are much better off starting your seeds/seedlings in a fairly INERT planting medium.
Your small roots, along with little leaf mass, just can’t handle the same soils you may successfully use in your outdoor garden.

There are many, many good growers here that will try and steer you in the right direction. The more information you can provide, the better we can all help ! BTW, let me ask mate…do you have a good pH meter? It’s worth the money and can surely help keep you out of trouble throughout your grows !

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Wow firstly overwhelmed with all the responses and knowledge. @PreyBird1 @nacho151 @TheMadFlascher Can’t thank you all enough . My people :pray:. Certainly all very valid points and deffinatley a good wake up call I needed. So I went an did some shopping today… Pulled my finger out so to speak haha an invested a bit more … I can only hope iv got in early enough to save them.

Have transplanted today all of them into a mix of 30 perlite to 70 cana coco .

And picked up some a few things that should get me on the track to having a serious go about it…

As for the light height iv just been going off the warm hand rule I guess… Trying to keep it a a point they can get warm but not hot… If you think it’s safe to go lower I’m happy to try.

Here’s a photo of thisarfternoons changes and I’m so so appreciative of any constructive criticism .


Unfortunately I would say this one’s a lost cause but I’m hoping a couple of days on just the neutral moisture from this median may restore or help

But not very hopeful…otherwise heres what I got today along with some descent instruction on using it. So far I have an ec meter but not a pH meter … Hoping to get one in the next couple of days … Wondering should I let them settle for a couple of days or give them some root stimulant with feed…



Also all of these seeds came from Herbie’s seeds in Spain so any knowledge needed on what they like is there I just wasn’t capable of implementing it without assistance haha…:person_facepalming:
We have Gorilla glue auto
Apple Betty’s
Amnesia and zkittles… All of witch I have a few more seeds of each but I’d really like to try save this lot if I can
…

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Everybody’s got you covered pretty well here. I do however see a possible future problem. Now that you have switched to Coco you are going to need to use a lot of Cal mag. it’s not something you’re gonna have to worry about immediately, but I do suggest researching it a little bit especially photos so you know what to look for. Also posting lots of pictures here if one of us notices it we will point it out.
There’s also two choices with finicky seedlings. having experienced what you’re going through personally several times, sometimes the seedling pulls out of trouble and take off in a few days. But I’ve also had them stall for three weeks and just sit there. And then one day you look at them and they’re double in size suddenly. so depending on your Seeds situation you could start more and then in a few weeks cull out the weak plants.
If you only have one tent you’re going to flip your lights for all your plants at the same time. So if some of them are three weeks behind others, you could see the problem. :v:t3:

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I think I will grab a seat in the front row for this Rock festival. Go Get Em, @aussienewb !!!
Out fucking standing!

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What’s up @aussienewb! Welcome to the family.
You’re babies are ā€˜hot’ indeed, like the others stated! Good on ya that you transplanted. Can’t go without the pH-meter indeed. It’s your knife & fork. pH + EC- pen.
Read a bit about buffering coco and the importance of it. Here’s a little article, to get started.

Below some great tips for growing in coco from the Canna brand website:

Tips and tricks when using coco

1. Always invest in a good quality, well known brand of coco designed for soilless growing and don’t be fooled by the many inferior quality products on the market. While coco from different sources may look similar, there can be large differences in the quality and this can have a negative impact on plant growth. Coco products sold in garden stores and hardware outlets often as inexpensive compressed bricks of ā€˜garden mulch’ are not usually suitable for soilless growers – these types of coco are typically high in sodium (an unwanted element), high in total salt content, often have not been fully decomposed, and hence have a high nitrogen draw down which can result in nitrogen deficiency even when the full strength nutrient solution is applied. Inferior coco products are also not ā€˜buffered’, conditioned or pre-treated to stabilise the potassium levels and boost calcium which is required to offset the tendency of coco to retain calcium. They may also contain weed seeds and pathogens. Buying a reputable brand of coco for soilless growing is an important investment in the nutrition and health of the plants and also simplifies the process of growing a great crop.

2. Select the right nutrient product (i.e a specific coco nutrient product) to use on coco substrates. Coco growing media is not like many other soilless substrates such as rockwool which arrive pre sterilised, chemically inert with a low CEC and with a very minimal effect on the composition of the nutrient. Coco contains naturally occurring potassium which since potassium is a major plant nutrient, is considered a bonus; however this needs to be allowed for in the nutritional program of the plants. Coco also has other effects on the composition of the nutrient solution applied and levels of nitrate, phosphate, calcium, magnesium and iron may need to be adjusted to, allow for these properties. There are commercial brands of specific `coco nutrient’ formulation products on the market, however it is always a good idea to select both the coco substrate and the coco nutrient of the same brand as it is likely they have been developed to work together and will give the best results. High quality coco products are likely to have been pre-treated and the accompanying coco nutrient will take this into account so that the ratio of elements in the root zone stays as optimal as possible.

3. Select the right type of coco product for the plants being grown. There are a large range of coco products on the market and many different grades with various horticultural uses. While orchids prefer a very coarse coco ā€˜chip’, using coco for propagation and germination of small seeds requires a much finer grade which will hold sufficient moisture as well as oxygen. General purpose coco which consists of a range of particle sizes is considered ideal for many plants and is the most widely used grade for soilless production. The coarser particles help the coco substrate remain more `open’ to aeration while the finer particles hold moisture between irrigations and the combination of both these, is what gives coco close to optimum physical structure for plant growth.

4. Remember that coco is a `living substrate’ and it should be treated as an entire eco-system which consists of beneficial microbes who make their home in the coco particles. This beneficial microbial life plays an important role in soilless systems as many fungi have a protectant effect on the plant’s root system and have been proven to suppress plant pathogens as well as other possible benefits with nutrient uptake and plant growth. While other growing substrates start out as ster best left in its original state or even inoculated with populations of beneficial microbes such as Trichoderma. These populations of beneficial microbes in coco are to be encouraged and for that reason harsh sterilising chemicals such as chlorine bleach, hydrogen peroxide and even boiling water should not be used on coco substrates at any stage.

5. Coco usually maintains pH within an optimal range; however EC can build over time and should be checked from time to time, particularly under warm growing conditions where the plant may have been taking up a lot of water from the substrate, allowing the concentration of nutrients to climb. Because of the nature of coco growing media the EC around the plant’s roots may be different to that in the leachate or the solution draining from the growing slabs, pots or bags. A quick and simple `extraction sample EC test’ can be carried out on coco media to determine the actual EC around the root zone. For an extraction test, a small sample of coco is taken from the growing media, (several samples should be taken and combined to give a representative sample). Then 100ml of these combined samples is measured out (coco should be damp but not overly saturated). The 100ml sample of coco is placed in a jar and 150ml of deionised (or RO) water is added and the mixture shaken 50 times. This is allowed to sit overnight to allow extraction of nutrient ions in to the water. The resulting mix is then re shaken and filtered to remove particles and the pH and EC can be measured. The ideal pH range for the extract for most crops is between 5.5 – 6.2. Ideal EC levels vary depending on the stage of plant development, the growing environment and the crop being grown, however a general range is between EC 1.0 and 2.5 (tomatoes may be grown at much higher EC values, particularly with commercial crops). Larger scale growers and those in commercial production will often have the coco extract sent of to a lab for a complete nutrient analysis which determines the levels and ratios of each of the elements in the nutrient solution so that fine tuning adjustments can be made.

6. While coco is a great growing substrate it still needs to be monitored and just as with other substrates, it is possible to over water and saturate the root zone. Coco can look slightly dry on the surface and still be fully moist in the root zone, so checking the moisture a few inches below the surface is recommended. Moisture should be present when the coco is squeezed between the fingers but the surface of the growing media should not appear to be wet - over damp coco can also attract fungus gnats as well as reducing the level of oxygenation in the root zone.

7. Coco is an environmentally friendly substrate and a fully renewable resource which can be used for more than one crop. However once its usable life is over it still makes a valuable soil mulch or soil conditioner for outdoor plants, and can be added to vermiculture (worm farm) and compost systems.

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What state are you in? I’m a Belgian with relatives in WA. I’m preparing to move to NSW myself soon.

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Mr Monkey Hopefully not before Christmas. Im working on your presents now. want you to have them in time for the Holidays. I keep all my seeds in the fridge so I have been a little reluctant to keep opening them and taking them out. I don’t want them to get messed up.

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Nah. Not before spring even. :slight_smile: Need to finish a few grows, and get the Permanent Resident status still. The visa process is a long one.

It’s -4°C nighttime and 2°C daytime atm over here. 4.30pm it’s dark. Fuck I can’t wait to land my feet down under again. This winter thing is not my cup a tea. Definitely a summer monkey.

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Same here . Not a winter person at all. And I hate when the sun goes down to dam early. Just about to go down here about another two hours. 2:17 pm here now

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Yep, our climate here across the pond is very similar to NY / Boston’s. Same latitude @greyalien44

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