Thought I would post this issue here to see if anyone has experienced this.
Here’s a refresh of the timeline and pics.
This happened in a 12 hour span of time so it’s not a deficiency or the usual things that we run into but something quick and catastrophic. It must be in the roots because that’s where the magic happens as well as this type of thing is all I can come up with. Wish I had an answer but as of now I am clueless. First sign is one or two tops starting to lose rigidity and slightly flop over like you might see when doing some training. And in a matter of hours the rest of the plant follow. Corona has nothing on whatever this is as far as the speed at which it occurs. Hope others can at least be aware of this issue if it happens to them and maybe someday we can come to a definitive answer at least as to the cause and maybe a course of action to turn them around.
Friday 3-27 evening
Saturday less than 12 hours later
This morning at lights on
I want to thank everyone that has offered suggestions and possibilities etc all are welcome no matter what they are because ya just never know when that one hits the nail on the head…
This shit happens fast like a car crash and not slow like a…like a…well I can’t think of one atm lol
@crisd and thoughts?
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That would put less stress on her but the other 2 in the same 45 gallon pot as well as the other 9 in there are unaffected and starting third week of flip. I’ve pretty much written her off and cut some big branches off to allow some more extension from the other two in there.
I had this happen about 6 months ago where they were in veg in separate pots and different strains and had the same look and speed to death. Never did figure out that either but is the same as now…look…speed etc etc…
Dropped an Auto seed and will put that in the open space once I remove the rest of the carcass lol
Ok I mean, I’m not there and I don’t know all of the conditions in there, but from what I can tell in the photo, they all look like they are suffering from too much light intensity and that one plant, being a lighter feeder, took it the hardest.
I appreciate the feedback and yea it’s tough to diagnose if not touching them in person.
I’m not sure what light intensity issues your seeing from the above pics on other plants? If you could point them out I’m all eyes…as I’m not seeing any but then again I’m still learning things as I go
In that same pot is also a GDP and a SSH and I have 2 other BD and 2 other GDP and SSH and 2 Gold leaf and 2 White widow extremes in other pots…some 45 gallon and some 5 gallon.
Running living soil with dry nutrients. Teas etc but mostly just RO water
Temps 80/68 RH 50-55%
That and the angles and placement of the light within the tent can trick the eye, but the tops look like they are more of a lime green than the lower parts of the plants. The plant that is dying is reacting as if it was extremely over fed and burnt itself up internally. More light intensity leads to more uptake of water and nutrients beyond the plant’s ability to handle. They will also show signs of heat damage, which that also has some appearances of.
If you can get your hands on a light meter, it should be easy to check. Optimal ranges vary depending on genetics but anything over say the 90,000 lux range can easily kill plants.
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We are all, always learning 
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I do have a lux meter and it’s hitting about 40-50k at the tops.
Yep more intense light more eating…
Have 2 HLG 600H (non r-spec) fixtures in the 4x8 tent.
Converting that using the calculator on their web site I’m hitting about 650 PPFD on average.
I’ll look again but more than likely the picture isn’t showing what I see.
The thing is this happened in less than a 12 hour period from first pic up top to the following morning 2 pics down and then daily down hill etc.
Yea they are growing (new growth) fast so the tops are lighter green
Hm well that doesn’t sound very intense at all then! In living soil, pH should be a non issue. Temperature and humidity levels aren’t perfect but not out of range for Blue Dream.
What powders are you amending with and when?
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However now that I’m thinking about it, as bacteria composts the materials in your medium it is creating heat that is more beneficial to the bacteria than it is to your root growth and performance, they also like to raise the pH to alkaline levels because that’s what bacteria thrives in.
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To quote the internets:
" Root rot needs bacteria and a wet environment to grow. To combat this problem, stop watering for a few days and let the soil dry out or transplant into a new grow medium. Fresh dry soil should help the situation out. Root rot can be dangerous because it looks like overwatering or under watering when in actuality, your plant’s roots are turning brown and dying. It is also pretty common if you are using a very small container and your plant is too big for it. You would be surprised how elaborate and large the root structure is within your plants, especially during flowering. The roots grow to be just as big as the plant. If it’s in a large enough pot, the roots will just curl around the edges of the pot. If it’s in a small pot, then the roots tend to have nowhere to go and root rot can occur."
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This is the second grow in the same soil (no till) and have been amending using mostly DTE products. I use single ingredients slow release like feather meal for N etc etc… I’ve made up mixes for veg and flower and top dress during the grow along with teas, SEA - 90 etc etc.
Yep true …bacterial dominant raises PH and offsetting that I believe is where the fungal (Mycho) exudates are lowering things. Soil Ph ranges between 5.8 and 6.8 using good soil meter…varies by depth and moisture.
I’ve inoculated with Glommus? Forget exact strain…from seed to transplant and also in a couple waterings to keep them going along with 24 hr bacterial dominant teas…
Soil temps are about 70f or so keeps cool with cover crop and straw mulch plus the plants
The 45 gallon pots are Root Trapper 2 fabric pots
And I appreciate your time that your taking to follow up…thanks
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Do you remediate your soil inbetween cycles? I am definitely landing on root rot so far.
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The amendments look good.
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Soil temp is a good indicator but measuring the surface doesn’t reflect what is actually happening within the milimeter around the rhizosphere, so it’s a bit of a stab in the dark.
Also no problem, it’s fun trying to tech plant issues, like solving a puzzle. Not always easy to figure out though!
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No I’ve harvested and then left old roots and rotated a spot around to fresh area and planted seedling using cow pots…like peat only made from cow shit…quicker to decompose than peat.
BTW there are red wrigglers worms in the pots too from my worm bin…
Soil temps using a meat thermometer it sticks down about 6”…
So I do stab in the dark…near the roots…lol
Definitely roots just dumbfound as to what does that in 12 hours and the plant never recovers? I don’t think even root nematodes would be that quick but hell I don’t know. I’m guess the bad critters overtook the good ones whatever those bad ones are/where…
Medicating with some WWX so don’t mind me.
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I’m going to assume you have all the basics covered. In my opinion you have Fusarium wilt. The best thing for you to do is take some of the roots and send it to the lab for confirmation. If that’s in your soil you will have to start over. Inoculate your soil with root shield or great white to avoid this in future.
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Amazing thread… Sometimes it’s just not meant to be… My question is was that the only blue dream in tent?
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Thanks for the reply.
Yea the soil PH and temps/humidity are in range.
Does fusarium wilt happen very fast as I’m not up to speed on it?
I’ve always inoculated my soil and transplants with Mycho a blend of strains from DTE. Also use teas on a regular basis bacteria dominant.
Also use a few other additives for amino acids and such.
@scotty17 there is only one Blue Dream in that pot but there are 2 others in the tent. One with 2 Gold leafs and one with the same mix of GDP and SSH and all are in 45 gallon pots and so far very healthy.
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