HLG l.e.d. quantum board build #3

Ok here is my newest build a HLG based quantum board build. I like the hlg V2 elite light engines.
I run 4x in series using this driver

  • HLG-480H-C2100B i run each board at 120 watts on a potentiometer/dimmer.


  • HLG-480H-C2100
  • HLG-320H-C1400
    QB96 Elite V2 is a white LED Board with boosted red spectrum. Each QB 96 Elite board has 64 High power White, 16 Red (630nm) and 16 Deep Red (660nm). QB96 Elite V2 offers a wider spectrum than standard 70 CRI, 80 CRI and 90 CRI LED.


  • Three QB 288V2 Rspec
  • One Triple Slate 2 heatsink
  • Connectors rated 300V 9A
  • Dimensions 6.833" x 11.25
  • Max current per board 3000mA @ 54V

Recommended driver(350Watts max) for 3x QB 288 boards in series HLG-320H-C1750A

I run these boards at 350 watts ÷ 3 - 10% = 315 watts or 105 watts a board after the 10% reduction because of efficiency thresholds.

So between the 8 boards it makes 747 watts :+1::+1:
I didnt have enough time to wire the other ballast back up after i had to figure out how to mount this new center light section to my already fabbed up frame. I like the square tube aluminum but its pricey. I usually just buy angle aluminum. I keep extra new heavy duty extension cords on hand to make power cords for the lights so i spent a couple hours messing around wiring the center light up with what i had on hand. May not be super clean like my other build but up in the air at the tent ceiling it doesn’t matter so much.

New potentiometer.

Low setting.

High setting. Too bad the phones camera has auto dim. Hard to capture hiw bright the light really is.

Takes time to hard wire and solder and shrink all the connections. But i dont use wego connectors. I build my lights like my drones all hard wired only.


Thats pretty bad ass Prey !
Morning man.


Whats up man! Thankyou! Ill fire up the other 4 lights tonight.


Gott work see ya


Well kick some ass today !


Wowzer, all soldered, hardwired with shrinkfit. What are you some kind of professional… very nice?
Prey I see they have the red and far reds but what is the base whites? Is this like a general QB @ 3 or 3500k used as an all around or is this a flowering bulb? Im sure I’m overlooking something simple but you know me… I’m not the brightest led on the board…lol - that’s me! …



  • 3500k Samsung LM301H Bin Diodes, 16x 660nm Deep Red
  • CCT 3150-3250
  • CRI (Ra) 90
    These are the 3 main lights color specs.
    The v2 elites.


QB96 Elite V2 is a white LED Board with boosted red spectrum. Each QB 96 Elite board has 64 High power White, 16 Red (630nm) and 16 Deep Red (660nm). QB96 Elite V2 offers a wider spectrum than standard 70 CRI, 80 CRI and 90 CRI LED.


Heres this sucker at 50% in action!


Love your work on this…giving me lots of ideas for a future project.


This is my 3rd build.
Here is my 2nd build. I really like this lights main boards they have UV in them. But there discontinued, i used to be able to order the boards for $70 each. But they went fast and dissapeared. I got them from budget led. But i paid extra and found 4’ heat sinks!


Fucking finally!! @PreyBird1 I’ve been looking through threads to see how to mount the hlg diy kits. I’m trying to keep it on the simpler/cheaper side…I was thinking of just using a piece of aluminum about 1/4 in thick with some drilled holes then use nylon washers and self tapping screws. My question is, would that work or is there a more viable option? And Did you have to solder anything?


I solder everything. You can just buy wego connectors for the wiring. I used to build computers and rework circuit boards so i have a smd station. For heating boards and soldering. And i used to do micro soldering. And i build rc trucks and cars and boats and i make my own racing drones and helicopters.

This is my big drone. He can hit 15,000 feet.

This is my racing drone it’s called the “Baby Beast” it can hit 80mph and go from off the ground to out of sight in 4 seconds.

I like just plain old square aluminum tube at lowes works great. Or rapid led sells sexy light frames and rails but there not cheap! I like cheap and functional. I dont want expensive things that i dont see ever unless im cleaning them. So outta sight outta mind.


Congratulations is in order that was impressive mate.
I read it a few times. You could of done some of your micro solidering and designed the boards and put diodes on by hand. Mentioning it because thats the route we would like to go. Osram everything.

Did you have a set budget going in?


Typically i shoot for $1.00 a watt to total price outcome. You also have to figure 10% loss due to driver efficiency. So my last build was $895 and i used 2) 480 watt drivers so 960 watts -10% so 864 watts. So $895 ÷ 864 = .96 a watt. But need cords, plug ends, substrate to mount things, wiring. So i figured about $1.07 a watt. :man_shrugging:

Edit i have silicone high voltage wiring i use building drones and R/C boats. So some of the small cost items i have in my inventory of soldering and smd stations and gear/ equipment boxes.


Chip on board work is not fun. Its time consuming and i can buy components cheaper then dicking around with COB chips. Ive gone down this rabbit hole before. And i have a bunch of parts to make lights with. I need one more driver to complete a 6 board hlg build i have. But im always stretched on times. Im supposed to be taking clones for my RDWC build i just made today. And i wanted to test a new Ipm product i just got. But i work tomorrow and then im on vacation for a week so i should be able to get my clones into the rwdc to try that out. Well see what happens.


I suppose if you have the right connections and money.
Am a newbie floating through with a passion to understand this mircale plant.
We have time on our hands to make it a slow speedy process. I would like a unique design and this lamp will be rare, only i will have.

Relax bro you will get them clones done in time.
I understand.
Enjoy your vacation, have a blast.


Ok question for ya. I wanna build a light for my room I have plenty of boards I can use and drivers around here. What would be a good alum to use as a heat sink hell I have in total 14 qb boards and 6 drivers I wanna take apart the 260xls and use the boards and make one big light for the room wall to wall coverage in total I have a
Hlg scorp diablo x1
Hlg 260xl x3
Hlg 135rspec x 2
600w.inventronics driver 2x meanwell 240w.drivers a inventronics 240w driver and 2x drivers to power the 135s I’d like one big setup like u did with URS rather than sever lights hanging I usually don’t mess with my light height and use risers ect under pots so weight is not an issue much lighter would be better tho. I just want a sink that’s gonna keep boards cool enough and not be like the enfun boards I have and they get so hott it’ll give u 10th degree burns touching the heat sink at the end of the day. Lol. Lights have out a beautiful plant with nice buddage but man did they get warm


I would call Hlg and see what they recommend Driver wise. When i run 3x 288 rspecs boards they recommend a 320 watt driver. They would also have info on what drivers and boards are “Dimmable” i prefer external dimmers. I have source for every part you need. But you either need to ask the manufacturer or a lighting engineer what are the correct parts to combine or you can start a fire or get shocked. Most drivers have some kinde of reverse polarity and shirt circuit protection built in but just be safe man"

If you need to ask HLG questions call these guys.

For parts call digikey usa there very helpful and will help you find what you need.

If you want to find parts yourself.

I also use Octo parts for hard to find stuffs.


And lastly i also use Finchips for part sesrching.

I use all 3 company’s to source parts around the world. If it exists these resources will locate them.

@Mark0427 for heat sinks i use hlg for there boards because there already tapped for the boards to screw right on to the heatsinks.

Or i also use this company they make custom heat sinks.

These guys have some really cool heat sinks. I found some fancy tiny ones for a UV light build i did a couple years ago.
You will have to drill you own screw holes and tap them for your boards holes to line up. Its super easy they sell a single tap on amazon for like $5 i have a full tap and die set but its very easy just takes some time to make happen but worth it.


I’m talking like the scorpion one big has for all panels I guess I can get bars and make my own style and use bigger drivers to power 4 panels each side or so. I have I believe 14 panels 6 are diablo boards rest are the older style qb from the 260xls and 135rspecs I’m gonna see what I have local for a spot to purchase some drivers and see what they have and go from there. Hopefully soon I can post a diy light topic on building a light on my own.