Ok guys here is a simple effective quantum board light build. It can be made in any configuration. Very cool little pinsink lights.
Here is what were using.
4x QB96 ELITE V2 ENGINES from hlg.com
1x meamwell HLG-480H-C2100 from digikey.com
4x QB polycarbonate optical lenses.
4x silcone gaskets. (For lenses) makes the lights waterproof, dust proof and bug proof.
4x 1"x1" aluminum angle from lowes, h depo, ect.
1x 3’ aluminum sqaure tube. Trying to keep the lights in the middle perimeter of the tent but still hits the corners.
4x 1/4" eye bolts
8x nuts for the eye bolts.
1x roll electric tape.
3 zip ties.
8 screws per lens.
1x set of power connectors 3 pin like a solar panel
Pair of Rubber gloves.
Rubbing alcohol
Paper towels.
Shrink wrap.
Soldering iron. Solder.
Heat gun to shrink wrap. Or SMD station like i use.
I buy light duty 100’ extension cords to make the power cords. No need for heavy duty.
1x roll of silicone wire 18 gauge i like the kind for building R/C drones. high voltage small like spaghetti.
Steps
- Make a template of the side of the heatsinks with cardboard.
- Mark all the aluminim angle with the template you made and use a tape measure to make sure it’s correct on all 4 of the light mounting holes.
- Take a punch and punch you holes. For the drilling of the mounting holes. I like a brass spring punch for this.
- Drill the hole you just punched out to a size slightly bigger than the screws that came with the lights.
- Mark punch and drill the 3’ square tube so you can mount the 2 sets of lights per rail set you just drilled. I found it easier to mount the heatsinks to the angle. Clamp them to the tube then mark and punch holes and drill them. To accept 1x 1/4 bolt and nut to hold the tube to the angle rails.
- Bolt it all together. Add thermal pads to the heatsinks after wiping them with rubbing alcohol. *pay attention to the board orientation before applying thermal condutive pad. Then Install the QB onto the heatsink and fasten with 4 screws after lightly pressing the corners of the board. Have rubber gloves on.
Next make the power cords. - Cut the length of cord you wish to use to power the driver leaving the male plug end on the cord. Strip the other end and tin the wires to prep for joining with the solder and driver wires.
- Wire the lights in series. Take a wire whatever color you like doesnt matter. But since the 1st connection to the boards is positive i chose red. And i continued red on one side of the light to get rid of excess red wire i had. Put the red wire in positive terminal on board. If your using stranded wire vs solid you have to tin it or it wont go into the receptacle. Then another wire out of the negative terminal on the same board. Then into the positive terminal on the next board and out the negative terminal again and into the positive on the next board and coming out the negative joining into the negative power wire of the driver.
So quick recap
Red /+ power wire from driver into + terminal on the 1st board then out -/negative of the 1st board. Then into + on second board out - on second board. Going into + on the third board and out the -/negative on the third board. And into the +/posative of the 4th board out the negative of the 4th board ending with the -/negative of the driver. - Test the power before soldering the hard connections. WEGO connectors are for lazy people who like to waste money and doing things quick and dirty in my opinion. Im oldschool and i hardwire all connetions. And add my own hardwired disconnect sockets.
Also i left the rails at 4’ i didnt feel like cutting them off. In case i add more pucks to it or reconfigure it.
