I have my scorp diablo one still attached. I myself still think my room stays too cool day hours. Lol. I cranked it full tilt for a day to see if it would up the heat. It did 1 degrees I don’t wanna have to run heaters and ac units as that would kill me on electric I wonder how much cooler my room would be if I took the drivers out and went without them in room. Too much work for nows project but I think I’m gonna work on getting all the wire and stuff to move them both the scorp and the 260xl I did find yesterday watering and doing slight defol and slight selective harvest on 2 that a couple spots in the canopy area did seem to have some warm spots I would hit here and there. I have fans constant blowing on canopy all around all diff directions and don’t get why I have such warm spots when fans blow past them areas
Could just be leaf density in that area? May have to play with a thermal temp laser gauge and see what causing it.
Well i had a little mishap. Dropped the driver off the table and it ripped out my wires from the connector. Now i have to resolder a new connector and fixed the damaged wires.
And then my solder fume extractor died! Damn i got a new one now but damn! This project is plagued! Lol.
Oh yea and when the wires ripped out i had to grab them because they starting to arc and that shits high voltage…now if you have ever zapped your self with electricity from a light switch or or or this is a good one a spark plug on a dirt bike when your testing a plug to see if it fouled out and zap yourself. The spark plug zap is bad! We used to trick friends into holding the plug and looking at it closely just as you kickstart it lollll! Because if the spark plugs not close to a ground or the motor for the spark to jump to. Electricity finds the path of least resistance and human skin is a fantastic ground because were mosty liquid anyways!
the house zap is tingly. NOW this ZAP is a cross of both but it burns a little more! Lucky i use a test surge protector on my work bench i hit the power switch on it. And shut it down then i started saying why the hell dont i have my rubber gloves on?? Ahh because i was finished it was all working and i was sliding it sideways 6" to get it off the table and i didnt see the driver sliding and rippppp
I like these potentiometers. And i decided i wanted a better adjuster knob…So i made one.
Fixed my connector. And added some wire loom where the wires go through the holes i drilled.
Did a test run on the corner lights.
So i drilled and tapped the Uv pucks fins so i could connect them with what i had on hand. Well i ran out of the little “L” pieces to finish hanging the other 3 Uv light pucks! Its not as clean as i like but it should work well!
Here im trying to see which way i can have the orientation of the pucks. Because the power plugs are stupid and in the way. But when i attached the uv pucks to the heat sinks 2yrs ago i wasnt thinking about using them like this.
I had to cut the little aluminum parts 2x because once there a was screw there. Then there wasn’t enoght room for a nice clean tight fit. The only other way would be to counter sink all the “L” brackets and find flat head machine screws. But since i already tapped them to the screws i had on hand. So i just cut the aluminum parts a blade width thinner to get past the screw issue.
Since there is 4 Uv pucks im going with this pattern to to disperse the Uv more evenly.
Nice build 
@jj520 thanks man! Here is the Uv’s in place now. And powered up. I have one more ballast to finish adding the power plug end and one connector for the light boards and the last potentiometer/dimmer. Ill post the final pics tomorrow and total costs and how it calculates out from all the costs to make our $ per watt/ratio.
Ok folks here s the final totals
- Drivers meanwell hlg-480H C2100B $198 each with import tarrif from tawain. From digikey.com
- Rspec FR Quantum Board X4 $140 hlg.com
- Elite v2 lite engines corner lights x4 $55 each $220 hlg.com and (lenses digikey.com)
- 2020 aluminum extrusion frame $77 amazon
- Frame accessories and corner brackets, screws ect.
- UVA trichrome enhancement pucks $32 ea. X4 + driver and splitter cable $15 = 136
- Connectors $3.50
- Cord ends $4
- Cords (free) cut off other old lights/equipment
- Flat yellow seal $19
- End caps $2
- Silicone wire (free) on hand
- Solder shrink tubes, loom on hand.
Total spent
$1,029
Total wattage from boards 960 watts
Uv pucks wattage 50w after 10% reduction
1010 watts -10% for driver efficiency so 909-910 watts
Total.
909 watts ÷ $1029. = $1.13 per watt to build this monster light. And in fact my last build was $1179 because the frame was $250 and i got no UV on that build because 4 of the boards had those uv leds integrated into them.
Low setting.
Highest setting!
UV Light function.
That’s a badass LED my friend! 
I’m jealous!
Nice build it’s a power house 
Its funny the phone auto dims so its hard to show its true brightness. If you watch the gif at very start it shows the brightness as the auto dim comes on. I originally bought the Uv pucks for a much bigger tent.
You really are very talented 
. @PreyBird1
Looks so professional you should market your own lights. You really know from experience on what you are looking for in a light.
Thankyou sir! Well i try and learn things. I like to know how to do that? It could be anything really. Im fascinated with the knowledge and the how and why? I got plans for keefe tumbler also. Im going to make a nice affordable one everyone can afford to make. I already have another version finished. But i have a nicer design now and thats the next project i have coming up. I have a bunch of carbon filters to rebuild and refill. Check out my link below on how to do this!
Definitely will. You always seem to Amaze me with all your knowledge. I always keep an eye on your projects. @PreyBird1
Thanks for the carbon filter link. I look forward to the kief tumbler. That’s something I could probably afford to build.