Led vs h.i.d

Grow from Home Random Chat and Fun!
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I posted this on another forum so figured I would post it on here to see what input I get!

Please if anyone feels like they can add anything to this article HMU!

Before I Begin I do not consider myself a expert, I am just a man with a Hobbie, a lot of people are always asking what is better H.I.D or LED ? so lets put this topic 2 rest!

If anything I say in this article is not correct please correct me dont light me up! Less gooooo

#GrowingStr8GasGang!

Okay, so let’s break this down:

High-end LED lights can achieve up to 220 lumens per watt, though not all models reach this level. Some advanced LEDs even exceed 3.5 µmol/J in efficiency, meaning they are more efficient at producing photosynthetically active radiation (PAR) for plant growth.

A high-end Double-Ended High-Pressure Sodium (HPS) light can produce up to 160 lumens per watt, with an efficiency of around 1.9 µmol/J. In comparison, Double-Ended Metal Halide (MH) typically maxes out at around 120 lumens per watt, with a similar efficiency of 1.9 µmol/J.

Ceramic Metal Halide (CMH) is generally more efficient than standard Metal Halide and can exceed 2.1 µmol/J in some cases. However, it maxes out at around 130 lumens per watt, depending on the wattage and model. So, while the lumen efficiency is typically lower than high-end HPS lights, it is still higher than that of standard MH bulbs.

Many growers report that High-Intensity Discharge (HID) lights penetrate deeper into the canopy than LEDs. This is likely due to the single-point intensity of HID bulbs, which focus light more intensely on a small area. In contrast, most LEDs distribute light more evenly across the canopy, which can reduce canopy penetration but provides more uniform coverage.

So, on paper, LEDs is KING of the hill ladies and gentleman —LED lights produce more visible light and emit more photons per second than traditional HID lights. However, the penetration depth of HID lights can still offer advantages in certain grow setups, particularly when lighting deep canopies.

#Str8GasGang
#2011

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Heh, for me it’s more a matter of heat than anything else. HIDs are just too hot for my setup to handle, so LEDs win by default. Just gotta train and lollypop the plants to keep an even canopy to get the most out of the lights.

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Leds are better now. I have every kind of light. And i have 6k invested leds. The other types are too hot and use way too much electricity.

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Well you made the right call but not necessarily for the right reasons.

First, looking at efficiency is a reasonable consideration when comparing fixtures but, PPE ( (Photosynthetic Photon Efficacy) measures how much energy is required to produce 1 photon, at the diode but for that photon to be useful to the plant for photosynthesis, that photon needs to travel to the surface of a leaf and with most bare LED diodes two things must be factored in and considered, and is not if you solely evaluate efficacy by PPE.

For example, our lights at scynce use patented optics
To improve photon delivery efficacy dramatically, and also the ability of those photons tonpenetrate deep into the canopy. 6 ft. Tall plants under the Dragon Alpha III is no problem.

But also considered diodes come in a variety of spectrums and those diodes are precise in the Spectrum they deliver. HID’s and DE’s run electricity through various gasses which when heated change in composition over time. First a bulb needs a break-in period when new and after certain period of hours of usage, the bulb degrades and the spectrum Spectrum continues to drift, And the bulb loses intensity as well,. Diodes do not drift and require 5 or more years of usage before they lose intensity. So, you lose precision and incur a high cost and continuously have to replaced.

LED’s can be controlled by software which allows companies like ours to create beneficial features, like shifting lighting recipes which have a slew of inherent benefits including strain specific light recipes to optimize each strain. We can trigger cryptochrome activation and ramp up light intensity, or phytochrome activation as we ramp down the light intensity at the very end of the light cycle.

We can automatically dim lights for foliar applications and change the Spectrum to Bright White to make it easier to see bugs mold or other nasties.

So lots of other variables worth considering…

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HIDs are easier

dialed in LEDs are better IMHO

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Thank you for your input mate <3

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I hear you on the heat!

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