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#2 The housing or any equivalent 4.5in x 10 housing make sure it is not see threw so light does not grow algae (just hook up to water source PVC / Hose fitting/ water balloon your sitting on…whatever)
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#3 ACTIVATED Carbon
This is the stuff but i suggest you look up a local filtration supplier (if they will sell you retail) or a local residential filtration company (they will sell at at mark up)) and ask them for a CU FT of 12x40 (pronounced 12-40) Coconut carbon it was like $60 or $70 a bag (maybe they will sell you a half bag…we have to split them up for some filters anyway and are always looking to get rid of / use the half bags) last i looked and you can fill that up like 50 times.
A viable option for most R.O.'s (Not specialty name brand, same as the others but made not to fit Normal parts R.O’s…Im looking at you Microline and Kinnetico…And dont think i forgot you Culligan…Im still keeping an eye on your evil butt).
Some people would want 2 of the carbon blocks instead of 1 being a regular sediment filter (Especially those who are on city water and have no whole house carbon filter.)
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Softeners will swap calcium iron and other negatively charged particles buy attracting them with a positive charge…then rinses with salt(a stronger charge than the minerals you removed so it favors the salt and “charges” the media and releases cal and iron down the drain during salt rinse.) how ever my understanding is as long as your not using an ro you should not (usually… not always) have cal mag problems I have always used an ro so i cant confirm first hand but that is the science behind it
Starting tds? yes big time An ro would not “treat water” like a filter (swap bad for good/ take one thing but not another) it “purifies it” Your not as small as an H2O molecule or a permeable gas? then you are REJECTED.
This includes the traces of cal and mag… so add them if your using an ro…(i don’t have the specifics on what levels of these will make it threw a softener (some definitely will tho)… but i have not heard anyone say a softener will make you require cal mag…yet)
EC, CF, ppm500, ppm700, TDS… What’s the difference? EC and CF are measures of electrically charged nutrient ions in a solution. Pure water will not conduct electricity. Water usually conducts electr
Even if your ro is a small / slow one… if you have enough storage space to hold what you need all at once… then it does not matter as long as you can fill it before you need it
Not bad, but perhaps a little more explanation on water softening… A softening unit has resin beads with a negative charge. You put salt (sodium chloride) brine into the softener to charge all the beads with sodium (a positive ion). Now you run your source water through the unit and all hard minerals (Mg, Ca, Fe etc ) are displaced by the sodium ions which are more active…so now that Calcium carbonate that forms lime deposits is changed to sodium carbonate which is soluble and you don’t get the deposits! Depending on the hardness of your water, after awhile your resin beads are all filled with that yucky stuff, so the beads are recharged with the sodium brine and all the yucky stuff is flushed in the waste water. So water softeners are nothing more than cation exchange units! Interesting note…NEVER use softened water for irrigating your plants…the Sodium will be toxic to vegetation over time.
In many cases water is softened before running through a r/o unit which will remove the sodium and you now have beautiful, safe water to irrigate with!! Did you ever notice that soft water is only piped internally in your house and all the external hose bibs are ‘unsoftened’ water…that’s so Joe public doesn’t unknowingly kill all his high dollar landscaping…FWIW!!
Unfortunately a chemistry geek, but because we are manufacturers, do have a lot of practical experience with commercial softeners/ r/o units. We run a 3500 Gal/day commercial unit at our plant…
