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Plants were dying outdoors and are continue to die indoors. This newbie is stumped

I was told that the plants need at least 10 hours of sunshine per day, so I would move my plants around into the sun, but they seem to be getting burned even though I gave them plenty of water. The place from whom I purchased the seeds suggested I move them indoors and set up lighting. I hung two 17 watt (100-watt equivalent) LED 5000k daylight flood lights about 50" over the plants and also hung two grow LED arrays from each floodlight.
The plants have been indoors for about two weeks and I leave the light on them 24/7. However, they seem to still be dying and, those that haven’t died, are simply “stalled”.
One photo shows both the grow LEDs and flood LEDs on, the other photo is just floodlights.
What am I doing wrong?

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Hi welcome back to the forum the two problems I see is your lights are way to far from your plants you want them 18-24 inches from your plants and you and you have to have a dark period for the plants to sleep or rest idk if your plants are autos or photo

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Welcome back. We’ll need a little more info before we’re able to help much. Answer these questions the best you can. That will give us a better starting point to help. Closer pics of individual plants will help also.

Grow Journal Check List

Seedbank:
Strain (bagseed too):
Indoor, outdoor:
Tent, Room Size:
Lighting:
Light height:
Temps (day and night):
Relative Humidity (day and night) :
Added Air (fans, portable acs, heaters, dehumidifiers) :
Ventilation:
Pot sizes:
Soil, Coco, or Dwc:
Nutrient type:
Ph numbers:
Ec and PPM:
Water Temps:
Co2:

Seed germination date:
Veg duration:
Nutrient cycles (how often feed/water):

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Attempting to zoom in a couple look like they are in flower as well.

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Seedbank: I don’t know what “seedbank” is.
Strain (bagseed too): Name of plant?
Indoor, outdoor: Indoor
Tent, Room Size: No tent. Room is about 15 x 15
Lighting: Two 17 watt (100 watt equiv) LED floods, two LED grow arrays
Light height: Floods are approx. 50" from plants and grow arrays are about 32"
Temps (day and night): 75 degrees F
Relative Humidity (day and night) : Nominal
Added Air (fans, portable acs, heaters, dehumidifiers) : None
Ventilation: Standard home Air Conditioning
Pot sizes: 5 gallon non-woven
Soil, Coco, or Dwc: Mixture of Junghle Growth potting soil and Black Kow composted manuare
Nutrient type: Was periodically using MiracleGro when they wqere outdoors. Have not used any nutriensts since bringing them indoors.
Ph numbers: Will measure and report tomorrow
Ec and PPM: Don’t know what this means.
Water Temps: Straight fdrom tap
Co2: ?

Seed germination date: Between Nov. 2020 and Jan. 2021
Veg duration:
Nutrient cycles (how often feed/water): When needed. I try not to overwater, the soil does not get dry to the touch.

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OK, I will lower them ASAP. How long should the dark period last? Only three are “auto.”

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How do you tell is they are in flower? I am seriously new to this stuff. I want to try to grow it to harvest to extract CDB for my arthritis pain.

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These are probably where your issues are coming from. Miracle Grow is time release, so any time you water it will release nutrients. Your soil has nutrients also, so there’s a good chance of N toxicity. There’s also a good chance you’re having ph issues. Depending on how much time release food is left in the soil, a flush may not do any good, since the water will keep activating the Miracle Grow, but you’ll have to flush or at least water to runoff to check ph and PPM. If I was going to make a prediction based on current info, I would say you have high PPM (too many nutrients) and low ph. You may also have a little chlorine toxicity going on if you’re not letting your tap water sit for a while before watering.

Do you have a tds pen?

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Looks like most of them are in flower. When they start putting out white hairs and getting thicker they’re flowering.

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Ditto. That was my first thought, nute burn big time. Flush the bejabbers out of them as soon as you can, just plain ol water, Ph’ed of course to about 6.2-6.5 and run about a gallon out the bottom of each pot.

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Ph in two plants is 6.2 and 6.8.

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Ph is good. Probably just way too much N. Do you let your water sit for the chlorine to evaporate out?

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No, I didn’t know to do that. How long should it sit and how long should they go without light?

When I use tap water I usually let it sit for 24+ hours. I generally run my autos 20 on/4 off. Since people find lights 24/7 for autos, but I feel like they grow better with some rest.

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Most municipal water companies use Clorimine now, it is more persistent than chlorine is. Several studies conducted by conservation Dept nets found that Vitamin C will neutralize cloramine in water and make it safe to run off into lakes and streams. It takes very little a half of a pill capsule will neutralize both chlorine and clorimine in 50 gal of water. You can get small bags of pure vitamin C on Amazon. HTH.

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Thank you!

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Well, I thoroughly flushed them all several days ago, moved them back indoors, lowered the lights to about 20" above the plants, and have been cycling the lights on for about 18 hours.
Unfortunately, a few more appear to be dead or dying and some leaves on a couple of plants are turning yellow.
I don’t know what else to do to save them. This is very disappointing.

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Mark X 2,

Sorry but you have a classic Alternaria infection…look at your picture 094045. Starts from the bottom spreads randomly up the plant…yellow leaves mottled with areas of green. Lesions begin on leaf margins and progress till death/abscission.

This is a serious Fungus and unless it’s detected and treated early it will be fatal. If you are all organic the best thing to do is isolate infected plants early and destroy them to prevent the spread of the disease…sorry mate…

If your program allows for real fungicide usage, it can be contained with Ag materials. Depending on laws in your state you may be able to buy from ag chem suppliers.

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BTW @ginger420 is suffering the same affliction…you may want to check his thread and view the symptoms…look familiar???

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