If the fish, wildlife and duckweed are alive and well, nothing to worry about.
Not sure what you’re talking about ? The algae blooms in Lake Eerie?..blame the farmers and their run off
It’s hard to get back to Huron sine we’re higher elevation (sea level)
And when in doubt. Aerate…Waste water 
treatment 101 
Cheers,
Packee
I know a little of waste water treatment… I should after almost 30 years…lol… and @Packee don’t forget the direction of flow…lol…
Wondering if maybe your other nutrients may just be coming out of suspension?
I am looking at that too. I just fed with increase so will see, I noticed they were getting pale except for the black widow. posting some picks, thx buddy, going with super soil next so that will be different too ! I have a good plan in my head as far as watering goes.
Hey there @zparkie2,
RO water is a finicky thing. A baby’s breath could alter the pH of RO water. I’ve found over time that you have to have the proper balance of bicarbs and acids in your RO water to maintain pH. If you mix nutes with RO, and leave it sit over time, your pH will stray from the original number - guaranteed. If you are watering with only RO (some sort of salt flush, depending on how you’re growing), it will strip your substrate of essential nutrients, so it’s always best to have some sort of buffer to avoid any nute/pH lockouts.
Which is good! Some growers would argue this point, however, having chlorine in your feed is not a good thing.
Ultimately, my best advice for right now, just by reading what has been said in this thread is that you should be checking the pH of your feed water frequently before giving it to your plants, make sure to mix your feed well and compare the input water to output every couple of days!
Once you familiarize yourself with RO water, then it’s very beneficial to use. However, if it’s too much of a headache, switch back over to tap water.
Hi Jess, thankyou for replying ! I am dooing different things and testing stuff out, RO isn’t out yet, and will one day find the best way then will move and do it all over again ! 
I found this and copy and pasted it, seems the chlorine in water is an old wives tale?
An excellent article from Colorado State University that may throw some light on the subject and set some minds at ease -
Impact of Watering Lawns & Gardens with Chlorinated Water -
"Many water providers add chlorine to drinking water to keep it clean for human consumption. Chlorine prevents bacterial growth in water distribution systems. Many residents use chlorinated water to irrigate their lawn and garden. If chlorine is added to drinking water to kill bacteria, what impact does it have on beneficial soil microorganisms? Does it kill beneficial organisms in compost piles, too? Researchers have found that chlorinated drinking water may kill a number of microorganisms in soil or a compost pile. However, their reproduction rate is so rapid that populations rebound in a short time. Under normal conditions, chlorinated water will not threaten microorganism populations. Microorganisms reproduce rapidly. In one study, researchers continuously applied highly chlorinated water to soil for 126 days. Two days after they stopped, the soil microorganism populations reached pre-treatment levels at all depths of soil.
One reason chlorinate water has little impact is that chlorine binds to soil particle surfaces. This immobilizes chlorine and reduces its ability to kill microorganisms. The organisms in the topmost surface of soil or a compost pile may be affected after irrigation but as the water moves downward little chlorine remains. In one study, researchers found that water chlorinated at 5 parts per million killed organisms only in the top half inch of soil. Organisms deeper than one half inch were thriving.
The amount of chlorine in drinking water is quite low. In order to kill soil microorganisms to 6 inch soil depth, water containing 65 parts per million of chlorine was required in one study. Drinking water usually contains much lower chlorine levels. For example, Colorado Springs Utilities water contains between 0.05 to 0.90 parts per million of chlorine, 70 times below the threshold level.
I’m a bit confused. If it doesn’t drop the ppm according to the company, then why is your r/o water at only 9 ppm?
Jess said it, nothing in the water to stabilize , and just a little CO2 being absorbed into the water creates some carbonic acid.
However this is a very weak acid. Adding your nutrient to R/O water, letting it continue to mix and aerate while it stabilizes, and then adjust pH lastly is absolutely the best way to go.
The R/O water no matter the starting pH, at say only 9 ppm, will take on, for the most part, the pH of the ingredients you are mixing into it. You are adding your nutrients that have their own anions and cations, and only 9 ppm of cations or anions has nothing on all the ppms of nutrient you are adding.
I would agree if your “plain” water is stinking, it is in severe need of aeration. Adding cal-mag will only make this worse, as cal mag generally has more than only calcium and magnesium, it contains a bit nitrogen, as the calcium and magnesium are usually from calcium and magnesium nitrates, good to grow all kinds of nasty stuff in a aerobic environment.
Also, if you are trying to replicate more of a well water, or river water, adding a silicate is a really good idea and will help along with the cal-mag to keep the pH stabilized.
Having it sit for any significant amount of time will require aeration.
Happy growing,
MacG
The RO water is 9 ppm . The water from the tap right now, (and it changes frequently, is 288 ppm). The filter in the post #1 is what I bought and hooked it up under the sink and has no change on the ppm’s. I got info from reading reviews and no change in ppm on that filter apparently. As long as it is 288 ppm I can deal with that and with that I will test and see if drift in pH soil is less severe. Thank you @macgyver_stoner
The chlorine was never that big a worry, but bicarbonates and such in your water could give you problems, they can build up in your media, like lime scale. And this can lead to a high pH and potential nutrient lockouts.
I think you do have all the information in this thread that you should need to make a educated decision moving forward.
Happy growing.
MacG
