Ive been having the worst problems with Russet/Broad mite for a little over a year now. We grow organically so a lot of our options were limited.
We finally had breakthrough 2 months ago with Coveset a sulfur based spray. I have not seen 1 mite since our third application !
Anyone that has problems with these seeming impossible to control mites, I strongly suggest a sulfur spray!
I am positive they are still around which is why we are not stopping with the sulphur. If anyone is concerned with residue a sufrancant called ThermX 70 cleans the plants pretty well, although any sufrancant should work. Cheers and good luck!
Sorry I spelled it incorrectly. ITs Cosavet-DE https://www.groworganic.com/oid-comm-cosavtdf-edge-sulfr-30-lb.html
I’m in California, and its fine here. It just Sulfur , but yes check you state on the exact product.
We only use 1/4 tsp /gal and that works perfectly.We rotate botaniguard, grandivo, and safer soap or thermex-70 . We spray twice a week with the rotation. We have never had any other bugs until Itook PFR-97 out of the rotation, now we get some thrips around week 6, but I just release some lady bugs and it seems all good so far.
One thing to note, if you use fungus based sprays or oil based in your IPM, you should rinse the plants between sprays or it will render most of your biological sprays ineffective.The oils will burn your plant once they hit the light.Oil+sulfur is bad mmmk . I had to take PFR-97 out of our rotation because of the sulfur. That’s where we use the thermex-70.
No pesticide product is federally registered for use on cannabis. There are however, pesticide products that can be legally used on cannabis in California, provided they meet certain criteria. A pesticide product can legally be applied to cannabis under state law if the active ingredient found in the product is exempt from residue tolerance requirements and the product is either exempt from registration requirements or registered for a use that’s broad enough to include use on cannabis.
If it helps, we have an exempt product that has passes CA residual requirements. It is soy-based and emulsifies the exoskeleton of the critters for a fast kill. www.miticidegreen.com. We are offering a free 2oz sample that will make 2 gal. You just need to dilute it with distilled water (you can use the distilled water in jugs that you can buy at almost any supermarket).
Usually fungus based sprays have compatibility table on their label , depends what kind of fungus sprays , some of them can be even mixed with hydrogen peroxide up to 200ppm , usually fungicides like potassium bicarbonate or sulfur that changes the PH surface needs to be applied 3-4 days before or after , another option is to use cooper fungicides they can even mix , or if you decide to go bio insecticides/fungicides to not use any . I usually use Monday - ZeroTol and after two days fungus insecticides/fungicides then i have 5 days gap before i hit them with ZeroTol again , the fungus has 5 days to infect the pests and the Hydrogen Peroxide breaks fast in two days . I understand your point , but i was reading some studies its hard to build fungus colony on the leaf surface permanently , they need constant high humidity to reproduce .I dont spray anything what is hard on beneficial insects , i have used IPM’s similar like yours very strict 3 times per week and i had the worst outbreak ever, the bad guys are more immune on the hard things then the good ones , you just make perfect environment for them to thrive . How you was using PFR-97 , they sell only 5lbs bags and it needs to be used in 30 days even refrigerated ?
