This isn’t really a plant problem; but a question about growing in a tent.
When you have multiple plants in one tent, should you rotate their positions in the tent every day or so, especially during flower stage, or is that unnecessary? My 4×4 tent has a 700 watt, 8-bar full spectrum light.
These are about three weeks into flower stage.
Thats unnecessary and if theres lots of room. If there is lack of light then maybe of get a light mover. It automatically moves the light on a motor and its timed.
Hey @ArtVandalay
Not necessary to do everyday day, but maybe every week move the plants around. You could find early signs of problems like mites or mold in an area you cant see from the tent door. or just spin the pots around in the trays. Plants are looking good BTW.
Thanks. I didn’t think of that reason. I am very pleased with the results from Jack’s A, B, and Epsom salts. It’s inexpensive too, so that’s a big bonus.
Should I go ahead and do another thinning out of the fan
leaves now?
These are very good reasons. But only if 1. You have the space. 2. There not in a trelis or tied up. Or 3. Not in hydroponic buckets or auto pots. Once there in the hydro buckets there not getting moved until the finish. Or if you have Huge plants suffed in a tent. Because the second there is no walls or other plants supporting that plant and the branches are gonna fall all over the place unless there tied to stakes to begin with. And i use some small grow tents for smallnplants and i need to rotate the plants because they will grow up against the tent wall and grow kinda flat. So i have to move the small plants around to keep them more concentric in shape and growing evenly.
Now small plants i do rotate but more to make the plants follow the light and bend the way i want them To. And you cant really rotate flowering plants either Because there way to fragile and damaged easily. I typically dont ever move a flowering plant once it started to show more hairs because thats when you dont want to stress the plants out. But this is why i hand water also so i can get down in there and actually check plants. And @chris is right about if you cant get back to the plants at the back of the tent. so rotating could be helpful in finding those types of issues.
I think 4 plants are the most I’ve grown at one time in my 4×4 tent. You’re correct, once they have been flowering, it’s next to impossible to just slightly spin them around, so I just leave them be.
I have read that the light intensity greatly dissipates at the edges, so trying to permit the entire plant to be exposed to the best amount/type of light is what I tried to accomplish.
Plants look magnificent. What’s your feeding schedule?
I’m feeding 3 gallons (1 per plant) about every 1 1/2 days. Each gallon has 1 teaspoon Jack’s Part A, 1 teaspoon Jack’s Part B, 1/2 teaspoon Epsom salts, and 1/2 teaspoon Dakine420 Shock & Awe (flower stage only). I know that different brands shouldn’t be used together. But it hasn’t negatively affected their growth so far. I also add about 1-2 ml of API Stresscoat+ to neutralize the chloramine in our tap water. I used to use a small RO filter kit, but can’t afford replacement filters right now. This method seems to be working fine…….so far!
I simply spin them to get the sidewall side into the middle of the tent, about every couple of days, but I don’t move them from one spot to another. No need yu have plenty of light in there. BTW those look great!
Marty
Epson salts are fine with any nute line I have used them with. Epson salts are a pure crystalline form of MgSo2 Magnesium sulfate. Provides Sulfur and Magnesium, which are every bit as important as Potassium for potency when you flower. I now use one other product no matter if I use synthetic nutes or organic nutes, and that is a wetting agent especially with coco.
What did you go with the coco and pearlite or the ProMix made with Sphagnum moss??
Marty
That’s what I’m doing now, just spinning the plants instead of shifting their positions.
For the planting medium for these, I think I’ve found a great formula, at least for me. For these 5 gal pots, I used:
1/2 sphagnum peat moss, 1/4 coco coir, 1/4 composted cow manure, 1 tbsp neem seed meal, 1 tbsp kelp meal, 1 cup worm castings, about 4 cups perlite.
The plants haven’t shown any signs at all of burn, and they constantly have the bright green new growth clumps. I guess the key, though, will be how much and how densely they flower. They seem to be chugging along great right now.
Sounds good, a little dense, keep an eye on compaction and getting dry water pockets,
They look really good Art.
Marty
I’m probably incorrect on the amount of perlite. There is probably more than what I said above. I wanted to make sure there was enough room for drainage.
3 1/2 weeks into flower stage. Is the light at the correct height above the plants? Should I do more thinning out of the leaves before the plants get too bulky to move?
Looks perfect to me. Great job Art.
Marty
That will help then, I use at least 30%.
Marty
Checking the plants this evening before the lights shut off, I noticed some minor tip discoloration and a yellowed one on the Runtz plant. Otherwise; it looks very healthy, and the Monkey Slapz and Blueberry Muffin don’t have any signs of tip burn and are very healthy, especially the Monkey Slapz.
All three plants get identical nutrients. What could be the issue with the Runtz and what should I do? Cut back on its feeding?
That’s really cool
I agree with the others. I find it easier to remove fan leaves and trim the underside when there’s space to turn them around. Obviously, once they are scrogged (if you’re doing that) you won’t be moving them, but then again, you won’t need to.
Before mine really get heavily going in flower, they sometimes get swapped tent to tent.
