I should have plenty of air . Im running 2 AC Infinity 6" fans one in-line 1 out . 1 12" circulating fan on bottom on full and a 16" circulating fan on top . In a 4x4 tent . Im pretty sure this is all growers era. I wasn’t using my Cal meg . With my reverse OSMOSIS system. Because I wasn’t sure what to add to it. My Reverse osmosis system adds 15 to 30 ppm calcium to the water. Its a hydroponics osmosis system
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I found a bottle of Gaia Mania supplements, Nectar for the Gods . It’s a 1-5-1 . Supplement .
Going to try this and pray it helps. Also Going to add my Cal Mag on every watering at 3.5 mil a gallon.
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Hiya @greyalien44
Plant is not looking too happy, no. Note that autos can be a bit trickier to grow as they tend to be less forgiving. Your window (timeframe) to fix problems is a little bit smaller due to their faster growing & developing character. Also, since you don’t get to dictate the vegetative stage, their is a much higher risk of taking present plant problems into the flowering stage which is absolutely undesired. Just some food for thought as I hear often that autos are easier for beginners. I disagree.
Let’s go back to the roots. Literally. I’m suspecting 2 things here: pH problems and a calcium magnesium deficiency.
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pH: check your pH, in soily media, I’d recommend 6.2 as your seed to harvest go-to. If your pH is incorrect you better stop giving any nutrients since it all depends on a correct pH. Get the pH right first. pH pH pH.
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You ALWAYS need calcium and magnesium, both elements play a huge role in your plant’s cell metabolism, the absorption of nutrients, activating growth-regulating enzyme systems, cell-formation & division, disease resistancy, … just to name a few.
Before continuing, first get something out of the way: If you talk about ppm, what scale are you on? 500? 700? 640? It depends on what your meter is set to, what scale your nutrient company is using, … Ppm used to be very popular in the US but working with the EC-scale (electric conductivity) is encouraged since it is the only ‘true’ measurement that never needs converting worldwide. Since you are a new grower I recommend you to get used to EC now and be ahead of many experienced growers around you… “together to a better world with less use of ppm and more EC”… lol.
If you don’t know what EC, ppm or TDS actually is, the basics: EC stands for Electrical Conductivity and is measured in mS/cm or millisiemens per centimeter. TDS stands for Total Dissolved Solids and is measured in ppm or parts per million . TDS is acquired by taking the EC value and performing a calculation to determine the TDS value.
Here’s the famous scale:
Good, with that out of the way let’s dive back into that calcium/magnesium issue. We want it to always be present in our water at around an EC of 0.4 ms/cm. So if you start with R/O water that is close to EC 0 (what a 15-30 ppm on any scale is basically), then you want to bring it up with cal/mag to that level (0.4). If you were to feed your plants liquid nutrients, you also want to start with R/0 water, upped with
cal/mag to 0.4 EC BEFORE adding your NPK-nutrients.
If you don’t, I guarantee you you’ll run into cal/mag issues along the way. This might have caused a phosphorus problem on top because they work together as well.
Remember: starting with EC 0.4 cal/mag in all waterings. Flush, feedings, name it.
Take a step back, less is more now.
- Wait till the rootzone has dried up
- Water her with your calmag topped & pH’ed R/O water
- Go back to 1
Phosphorus should be plenty available in your soil mix, there is no need to add it now. It is in the castings, in the amendments too, so the key here is to make it available for uptake. Guess what… pH & cal/mag…
Plenty indeed. Shouldn’t be the problem.
Good luck 
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Nicely said monkey man.
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I’m in total fault here.
Since they are in the buckets i can’t get any runoff readings .i should have added Cal Mag from the beginning of veg . Also im clueless in how and when to add my amendments. I added more 2-8-4 . Because it was about 3 weeks since last feeding. Most likely Fucked that up now. The thing that really sucks i waited to long in-between growing from last year. That im having some of the same issues with PH again. And in take of Nutrients. And i have no more until this grow is done. And probably going to be a bad run to boot . Thank you for all the advice and info. I have to use my Ec part of my meter and make sure im in the rite range with the Cal Mag. Thanks for reaching out Monkey , Hopefully within a couple of weeks or less you get the Birthday card I sent you. 
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No worries, together we can make it work for sure. That’s what the forum is here for, don’t get beaten down by a couple of setbacks. I see you’ve got saucers underneath your buckets, if you don’t have holes in your buckets yet, drill some in em now, the plants will be grateful! You absolutely need the drainage holes to allow your medium to dry up again. Otherwise you’ll run into root rot issues due to lack of oxygen and overwatering. And then we haven’t spoken about potential pests that you risk…
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It’s a self watering system. Feed water through the tube. And it bottom feeds. Im sure you know im a newbie and I have to hurry up and wait lol and the buckets I drilled a hole for the overflow. That’s why i have saucers on bottom.
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Oh ok that’s a different story.
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Can you explain again how your buckets work? With pictures 
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When using Grobucket’s, just check the EC or PPM and pH in the container you used to mix your nutrients in before watering. The EC or PPM and pH should be stable for 3 to 4 days after adding to the reservoir. Your water should be wicked up in 2 to 3 days before any changes would be a problem. I have been using them since 2020 and I’ve would say that my grows improved dramatically since I started using them.
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The only difference Nacho im dry amendments and im top feeding them. Tried the fox farm line last year and messed that up. But i never talked to anyone last year about how to use them. Also ran into problems with calcium and magnesium last year . Tried reading everything i could before i felt comfortable enough to ask for help. This year im on here and so far for what it’s worth i feel very comfortable talking about how Dumb i can be lol. I love this place.
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If your top feeding, water as normal and the reservoir will collect the runoff and use a short piece of tubing and a syringe and suck out a sample of the runoff water and check it that way if you can.
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Funny you say that. I just sucked the water out of one because it was sitting in there to long , not uptaken any water and I didn’t want it to sit in old Nasty water. But i used my shop vac and a small tube .
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I thought you were working with dry amendments as well. The gaia green.
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Thanks again for all the help
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All good, there’s no real dumb questions tbh, only dumb answers. What is knowledge to you might not be to me and vice versa… everyone starts with a clean slate in every skill in life.
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If you use a loupe at 60x and IF it is mildew, you should see a powdery/fluffy looking surface. I am just guessing but I don’t think that is the problem. I also don’t think it is a lack of nutrients, overall they look pretty good. I don’t grow autos, but when I have on a couple of occasions, they were not in general as healthy as photos.
Marty
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I never really wanted to do Auto’s but figured I’d give it a shot. And i went crazy buying so many different seeds. I had to make sure that they would pop and produce something.
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