Hypochlorous Acid.....Deep Dive

Clearline is supppsed to be a 3 to 1 compared to uc roots. Way strong. I am about to start using it.

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Is it 1500 ppm hypochlorous? I think that is the highest concentration I’ve seen so far and I bet it’s works out cheaper then alot of other brands per concentration. That seems like the best route if your going to use bottles. The homemade stuff is still way cheaper per concentration by double digits but I understand wanting the extra peace of mind especially in a large grow like yours.

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Clearline hypochlorous acid

Drip Irrigation (DTW):
+/- 1:16,000 to 1:4,000 Ratio
+/- 0.25mL per/gal to 1mL per/gal

Recirculating Water Culture:
+/- 1:6,000 to 1:3,000 Ratio
+/- 0.75mL per/gal to 1.5mL per/gal

Aeroponic:
+/- 1:8,000 to 1:4,000 Ratio
+/- 0.5mL per/gal to 1mL per/gal

Irrigation Line Shock
+/- 1:500 to 1:250 Ratio
+/- 7.5mL per/gal to 15mL per/gal
Run through system for 2-4hrs

Color: Colorless
Odor: Slight Chlorine
Odor Threshold: Not Available
Physical State: Liquid
pH: 7.0
Freezing Point:  25 F
Boiling Point:  212 F
Flash Point: Not Applicable
Evaporation Rate: 40g/m2/hr @ 68 F (20 C)
Flammability (solid, gas): Not Flammable
Upper Flammability Limit: Not applicable
Lower Flammability Limit: Not applicable
Vapor Pressure: 17.54 mmHg @ 68 F (20 C)
Vapor Density: 17.3 gm/m3 @ 68 F (20 C)

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We use diluted solution of hypochlorous from our Eco, one to clean all of our floors and counters

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What about a wetting agent? Would it affect the hypochlorous acid?

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Whats the bud wash? H2o2?

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Wetting agent for what?.The real beauty of KOCL is that the active CL does its job and the product evaporates Cleanly, If you used Potassium Chloride…you have residual Potassium Salts and some by electrolysis products, if you used Sodium Chloride…you have residual Salt and some by electrolysis products.

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joe,
The idea with the acid is you’ll saturate you plant surface and surfactants aren’t necessary.
The ‘purer’ your acid is, the longer it will store without losing efficacy…

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I understand that. Thing is, the hcol runs off the surface immediately for the most part but to me it seems like it needs to stay in contact longer.

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Your reasoning is sound if you were using another fungicide/pesticide…howeve hypochlorous acid is a CONTACT killer…so if it hits it…it’s dead!

Edit: I do realize you see the spray bead up and run off the leaf…on a microscopic level any fungal mycelium will actually absorb it and that’s enough to do the trick!!
One of the problems with Botrytis (Bud Rot) control under prolonged humity or rain, is that there are so many spores present in the air…all it takes is getting one to germinate in a tight spot and there are SO many nooks and crannies in the bud structure…

So Botrytis is kind of a battle of attrition…the longer you have high RH or free water present in your flowers, the more likely there will be for chances of infection.

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If you are going to do a bud wash I would go with a H2O2 and water mixture rather then baking soda and lemon because it will rinse cleaner. I’ve only washed one outdoor plant before so another member will likely be more helpful if your looking for a ratio/instructions @smokinjoe

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Robin Williams hehe

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Well yes but I was doing it my best Bon Scott AC/DC voice!

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Here you go ladies and gentlemen decent price so figured I’d leave this here… Hypochlorous Acid 500PPM (1 Gallon Jug) For Cleaning (Dental & Medical Professionals). All Natural HOCL Surface Cleaner For ULV Fogging Machines (Foggers) https://a.co/d/5bvhWbu

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That’s not a bad price either, nice…:+1:t3::+1:t3::v:t3:

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Definitely alot cheaper then Root drip. Does anyone know if its made with sodium chloride?

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For those of you utilizing hypochlorous acid in your nutrient reservoir system, I have some information that may be of help to you…
The problem I recognize is that there’s a BUNCH of hypochlorous acid products offered in the hydroponic nutrient lines…they very tremendously in their strength and manufacturer recommendations. About all you can do is choose one and follow their recs. HOWEVER…the effectiveness and viability of your acid in the nutrient system will diminish as it attacks pathogenic organisms…so how the hell do I know if my acid is at optimum levels through the grow season?? AND, what if I find a cheaper hypochlorous acid on line and want to use it??? How do I know how much to use???
Well my friends, there is an EASY solution to all those questions…it’s called a ORP (oxidation/reduction potential) meter. Now, with a little practice/observation you can keep your system optimized with ANY hypochlorous acid you brew yourself or purhase at a reasonable price.
I’m posting this article that explains it quite well, and it’s one of the few places I could find explaining everything in one place…

https://www.grozine.com/2021/11/09/clear-line-hydroponic-hypochlorous-acid-review/#:~:text=As%20you%20guessed%2C%20Clear%20Line%20is%20a%20hydroponic,added%20per%20gallon%20of%20water%20or%20nutrient%20solution.

If you’re a hydroponic grower, this information may expand your options…saving you money and producing the finest plants!

OPTIMAL ORP LEVEL IN CANNABIS HYDROPONIC SYSTEMS IS 420mV

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Cheers Bob!

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You all learn my lessons with me lolol

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We use it at our grow and, thanks to @TheMadFlascher, we started using distilled water and it has increased in efficiency. I’m going to take some home and use it on my home grow. The animals got into my grow and I’m pretty sure they brought spider mites with them. Been a battle for me. Dropped temps, Dr. zymes, alcohol, and soon hypo. Got it down to only finding one or two on a couple plants. No more webs or new leaf damage.

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