@TheMadFlascher Thanks Bob, how are ya mister? Yep, still am for sure, in matter of fact, visa application has been submitted a while back but Iām still waiting on approval from the DoHA (Department of Home Affairs) . So, no news yet on that front Iām afraidā¦ Iāll keep ya in the loop!
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I must have been pretty stoned, only saw that 2025 / 2024 typo in the video title just now 
Monkey spaceranger thought we were 2025 already. lol.
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WhAt YeAR ArE wE??
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Well done sir! They look delicious. How the F are you? Long time no see seems like. Looks really beautiful there where your at.
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This is looking a lot less delicious 
Not sure yet what the f is going onā¦ if someone has an ideaā¦
Looks like nutrient uptake is affected, but the fact that almost all leaves stay small and growth is extremely slow is what worries us most. 4 different genetics and all face this. Could it be a virus?
For all who donāt know me yet: all of our environmental parameters are where they need to be 
ā¦ itās something with the water, or a pathogen of some kindā¦
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Sort of looks like nutrient lockout to me, Iām not sure what this is though. The one on the left rear sort of looks like over watering to me.
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Itās not overwatering for sure. But my mate flushed them a couple times, hence the discolouration also. But itās the small leaves and overall sad growth that concerns me.
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Do a slurry test on the soil see where your pH and numbers are thatās where I would start them a nice dose of some low PPM feed with some microbes
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Good tip. Iām going there coming Wednesday, Iāll post the result 
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Mr. Monkey,
You know meā¦always offering alternatives !
First off, I suspect there was a pH issue as a logical starting point.
I would suggest checking the pH/EC (ppm) of the nutrient solution as feeding and also take one of the run-off pH/ECā¦that will tell you a LOT !
A couple of flushes without knowing the particulars may have drastically lowered your nutrient content.
Those black spots on the leaves lead me to believe it was a pH issueā¦they definitely DO NOT look like a disease. I also see no signs of virusā¦viruses will usually give you some funky twisting and malformation of leavesā¦
FWIWā¦good luck Mr. Monkey, hope you get it figured out on your visitā¦
Bob
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Slurry testā¦
1:1 water & soil from pot
Stirred it well, left to rest for 15 mins, stirred and left for another 15 mins, and measuredā¦
Took the photo a bit too early, it rose to 5.7. Bit low for a soil grow but not extremely?
Took some more pictures
Anyway, I fed them well, pH 6.3, added a bit calmag too.
Will keep yous in the loop.
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If they r still vegging try physan 20 to rid of the aphids and such. It is supposed to be a kill all but the plant. So far it worked super well on stwm rot here only thing ive tried it on. Strait out the bottle on a q tip rubbed the sore spot one treatment and it went away and plant grew wonderful. It was fairly cheap to get the bottle
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Bought some spino:
SUMMARY
120 g/l spinosad
DOSIS
Foliar treatment: 2 - 6ml / 5 litres of water
Plant foot treatment (50 plants): spray the foot of cabbage plants with 100ml of a dilution of 4ml / 5 litres of water
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Mr. Monkey,
Was just curious about your EC/ppm of the nutrient solution youāre feeding???
I also want to admit that those leaf pots may be Alternariaā¦ Itās not a typical presentation of most Alternaria that I see in the Statesā¦
However, Alternaria species are ubiquitous around the globe and infect many plants.
Iām not sure that what your seeing isnāt a localized Alternaria sp. Again, usually the disease begins in lower foliage, and kind of randomly starts spreading up the plantā¦if you have any hypochlorous acid available, I might suggest spraying it full strength to cover all your foliage (maybe every other day) and see if it stopsā¦
Sorry thatās all I got, but I still think you look HOT in pink !
Bob
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Thanks for your insight Bob!
For some reason itās really hard to get my hands on hypochlorous acid over here. And I donāt want to buy a generator as it is another extra thing I need to pack and move hehe. So Iāll go with hydrogen peroxide 12% for nowā¦
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Ok guys so, I received some beans from a home breeder on another forum: āRed Velvet Cake Autoā is what he named them.
Itās a cross between Scarlet Grapes and Bessie Cake. I want to test how good it grows in homemade compost. Iām going to grow them in our hoop house, I have a corner left there where I can fit them!
Letās pray to Freyr, the God of fertility and good harvests that the Botrytis Devil will be easy on us this year 
I germinated the seeds and planted them nursery pots. Yes thatās right, in nursery pots inside our house first, and later I will plant them out in the greenhouse. Iām doing this because we have all sorts of predators, big and small, trying to (and managing to) get in our greenhouse and do loads of damage. Iāve lost many little plants in the past that were covered with domes even, so to give these a better chance I start them indoors. My experience is you can do this just fine with autoflowers, just donāt give the roots the chance to hit the pot. And I plant them out when they have a first set of true leaves, when they donāt have a big rootsystem yet, in exactly the same soil as they were started in. Itās the cotyledon leaves that the mice love most! (Theyāre high in nutrition.)
For the past three weeks Iāve been cooking up a nice compost 
The compost heap, about 1.2 cubic meter big started as a big lasagna consisting of:
- 1/3 fresh grass clippings and stinging nettle (nitrogen)
- 1/3 dry wood chip, dry hay , and coarse sawdust (carbon)
- 1/3 cow manure from a nearby farmer (nitrogen + microbial life)
In the middle of the pile I put a dead Jaybird that crashed into one of our windows on the day I was starting this heap. Like it was sent hehe. RIP bird and thanks for kickstarting this awesome heap.
Any dead animal works extremely well (perhaps an annoying neighbourā¦), but you could also use a bucket of stinging nettle, comfreyā¦any green that has an ultra high nitrogen content to give it a little boost.
Then I wet it a bit, covered the heap and let it sit for 3 days. In those 3 days the temperature will rise to 65Ā°C (150Ā°F) and higher but you want to prevent that to avoid killing much of the beneficial bacteria. So usually at the end of day 3, I turn the heap for the first time. From there I keep it between 50Ā°C (122Ā°F) and 65Ā°C (150Ā°F) and usually 2 days after the first turn, the temperature reaches 65Ā°C again and thatās when I turn it again. I repeat this over the course of 2 weeks: it has then been turned 5 times. Compost is now usually ready to use but the longer it sits the more it gets broken down and the better it gets, fungal life is being introduced when the temps start to drop, etc. So if you can let it sit for half a year, do it. A year? Do it. Covering it prevents all the good stuff from getting flushed out by rains.
4 turns in (10days):
Now (3 weeks old):
Itās good stuff, thereās loads of nutrients and trace elements in there, bacteria and fungal life, thereās also still quite a lot of material that needs braking down, but itāll continue to do that. It holds moisture well, it has good aerating capacity. It grows superb vegetables.
So I dug a few holes, about 10 gallons each and filled them back up with the compost.
Happy growing!
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Very cool! Like the hoop house. And pics of the whole green house.
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Nice job, going to be following
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Very cool Iāll be watching 
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