PPM is calculated as you know from the EC that your meter reads, so the PPM is just a calculation of the meters EC. Far as I can tell they are the same thing, just a different way to read it. Am I right?
My meter will read two different EC’s PPM, and PPT. one EC is just a automatic scale reduction of the other and both are calculated into PPM when you set the meter to PPM. Let me go check it on the EC function…Just checked EC mS is 2.96. BUT that has nothing to do with actual NUTRIENT density. Because there are other things in the water that raised the EC or if you will the PPM. Right?
This is what I am not getting it seems that anything you put in the water, no matter if it is a nutrient or not raises the EC or the PPM however you care to read it. Even the PH adjusters raise the PPM, so does the seaweed extract, and also the root tonic. However they are not Primary or secondary or even micro nutrients. The plants don’t seem to be burning on the leaves. I am still totally baffled on this whole hydro PPM or EC thing.
So a question for all you hydro guys. Your in late veg… Lets say you have a 10 gal system (just for the ease of using a round number.) Now lets say your PPM is at 1000 on your nutrients. Two days go by and you are down a gallon of water and your PPM has dropped to 940. The way I understand it, the plants have “eaten” 60 ppm of nutrients out of the water correct? Now you have 9 gal of water all at 940. What would you make the PPM of the gallon of replacement water in nutrients to bring it back to the optimal 1000 ppm your nutrients company recommends ? What I am asking is how do you do the math so as not to under or over feed your plants?
I’m going to just say how I do it.
I dont check ppm until I fill the rez.
Reason for this is my plants my not take up nutrients one week. Sometimes they just take water.
I fill my rez then check ppm.
But I dont change my rez either.
Let’s get @repins12@Tygrow78@TheMadFlascher opinion on it
The only time I have burned my leaves is when I was using AN and was trying to bring my ppm up only using the micro grow bloom.
I figured out if I wanted my ppm to be say 1200 ppm I needed to buy the whole line. I wasnt willing to spend that kind of money. This is why I’m trying the jacks321
Ok. You are right the ppm reading on your meter is all based on EC. My problem is the maker of your meter has chosen the conversion chip. As far as I know, there are at least 3 conversion factors that the manufacturer can choose from. It is a matter of personal preference. Use what works for you! I tend to be a purist so I prefer the EC reading! You are also correct that everything you add to your water will increase EC/TDS readings. (organic chemicals are beneficial but will exaggerate your EC/TDS readings)
I believe the experience of other hydro growers is the most beneficial to you.
IMHO I would go with what you have and observe the results. You have a high TDS/EC because of the humic and fulvic acids and also the seaweed extract components…that’s all I was trying to sayI
Go grow some beautiful plants sssportsmfg!!!
@sssportsmfg , wow wow wee, looking great. You said you cleaned, so I assume you cleaned the bottom leaves. They going to cause trouble if you dont. Looking great otherwise bro.
No Chris, I cleaned the Hydro system itself, everything, the submersible pump, the lines the buckets the air stones and put new black silicone air stone lines in. I didn’t clean anything on the plants themselves, I do intend to clip off the dying leaves in a day or two. I had sludge all over the sides of the buckets, there was sludge in the water intake slits on the submersible pump and all over the air stones except where the air was coming out. It was a light brown in color no idea what it was, it didn’t stink or feel slimy. And the funny part about it is that the PH was perfect at 5.76 and the PPM was about 1300. BUT all the new leaves coming out were bright yellow, and weren’t greening up either. The water temp was 68.2 degrees, the roots were white and massive… everything LOOKED like it was perfect, but pure yellow growth told me it wasn’t.
But just got back from the purified water station bought 20 gallons of distilled water for next weeks purge lol.
Well just got back from my Distilled bulk water station, went and got 20 gal for the next water change. Very disappointing; Didn’t take my PH meter or my TDS meter with me. Got home and checked it out and it is 9.8 PH and 25 PPM. Long way from distilled water. Probably just run through a filter of some kind. I just can’t seem to win here lately.
I didn’t put anywhere near everything I had made by AN. I only put in part A&B grow, and Cal/Mag extra with a starting 7.0 PH’ed water of 65 ppm. And the PPM after just the A and B and Cal/mag was 1370 take the starting ppm out and those two AN nutrients only were at 1305ppm This is not the Grow Micro Bloom line, I used the PH perfect Connoisseur line by Advanced Nutrients.
Advance Nutrients directions say to add 4ml per liter at the grow stage I am at, so that is 16 per gallon or 80ml per 5 gallons of water. It is not exact as a quart is a little less than a liter. And we don’t use liter buckets. That’s what I put in 80ml of A and 80ml of B and 40ml of Cal/Mag per 5 gallons. That gave me the 1305 ppm with nothing else. after I added the seaweed and roots gold and then did a final PH it went up to 2120 PPM. The seaweed at 5ml per gallon raised the PPM from the 1305 to 1980ppm. Then the PH up I had to add to get it to 5.4 PH took it to 2120. It took 20ml of PH up to get it from 4.3 to 5.4 So the PH up took it from 1980 to 2120 ppm.
OK I know you don’t change the water out like I have been, but what I was asking is how do you calculate the amount of nutrients to add when the ppm goes down? and you have added water and it is now lower than optimal. Did you figure out how many ppm per ml your nute raises the ppm per gallon then times it by the number of gallons in the system then how many ml you need to add for the lost ppm for the total gallons ? Phew did I do that right lol ?
I should have that math worked out though.
Should be easy to do.
My system holds 70 gallons and needs to be 1200 ppm.
Sunday when I check mine I’ll tell you what mine says
The reason I asked that is it is a sliding scale kinda thing. If you mix the nutes at 1200 per gallon when you put them in the rest of the water will dilute it down from 1200. My system is small so it makes less of a difference, but it is still say 14 gallons at say using your ppm of 1200 if 13 gallons are at 1160 and I have to add one gallon and do it at 1200 they will all be at less than 1200. I am probably overthinking this lol.
Would it be like 40x13 = 520 ppm down…then 1200 new gallon + 520 ppm should raise the PPM of the entire system back to 1200. The amount of course would be the amount a ml of nutrient raises the ppm per gallon to add in the additional 520. Phew lol.
I feel your pain @sssportsmfg. My 1st grow in dwc was so stressful and I ran into a few problems. I cursed myself for making the change.
I have found that any organic nutrients screw with AN ph perfect technology. I finally pulled my b52 and Nirvana out of my lineup and my ph is stable, right at 5.9. If you want to dm me with any specific questions in the future, feel free. I’ve been there and dealt with just about every issue you can have with dwc.
Thanks Ty I will if I need to. On the organic screwing with the PH the PH was 4.3 without the Seaweed juice and stayed at 4.3 after I added it. The seaweed juice is not Advanced Nute product. I also added the house and garden Roots excelurator gold after the 4.3 PH and it didn’t change anything either. I was just reading the can on the Roots gold and it is a 100% organic. Read about a hundred reviews on it and not one bad. My plants are rebounding FAST! They are looking better by the hour. Greening up nicely.
Anyway I put all three 5 gal buckets into the system and let them mix then I adjusted the PH to 5.5. with the seaweed and roots already in it. I didn’t add any AN nutes besides the A&B base and Cal/mag extra. I plan on just leaving it alone if it keeps going like this and getting better.
I just jumped up and checked the PH it is holding at 5.5 28 hours since I adjusted it to that. So I am a happy camper tonight lol !!! All the leaves that were a light bright yellow are turning to green, they are not totally repaired yet but already about half way there. Conclusion, I have no idea which of the many things it was that I no longer have in the system. But this one seems to be working. Tell you something else…these two 4’ 5500 K Durolux lights are kicking ass too. And they are cheap $113 each. I know they are no good for flower, but they are kick ass for veg.
Here’s the girls 24 hours ago top and right now bottom.
